Get Your SUBE Card!

After spending two pesos per bus trip this week, a friend tipped us off to the wonders of the SUBE card.

In Buenos Aires, public transportation is subsidized by the government, which is awesome and means that the most you pay is $2.50 ARS for the subte or $2 ARS for the bus ($.42-.52 USD) per ride. However, you can get an even better rate than this if you purchase a SUBE card. It costs $20-$25 ARS at first, but with it, each bus ride is either $1.20, $1.25, or $1.30 ARS depending on how far you are going. So it will take you a few rides to make up for the initial cost, but will save you loads down the road. Not to mention the headache of coming up with the proper coins needed.
Like many things in this lovely town, something as ubiquitous and practical as a SUBE card couldn't possibly be easy to come by! Sandro and I had stopped in six kioskos by the time we both obtained and charged up our cards. I write this to possibly make it easier for those in our same position!

We are in Palermo, so I only know the options in this neighborhood. However, I have come across this handy website that may or may not be accurate but is probably a good place to start if you live elsewhere. In Palermo, there are quite a few locutórios along Ave. Santa Fe. These little shops offer snacks, long distance telephone use, and internet by the minute. Some of them also sell SUBE cards. You'll just have to duck in and ask. You'll fill out a small application with your name, address, and passport/DNI number and pay the $20 ARS. However, your card will not come loaded with funds and the locutório may not charge SUBE cards. So you will have to find a kiosko that does. There are many along Santa Fe that sport the SUBE logo in their windows. These places may or may not be able to charge your card at that time, so again, you'll just have to ask. When you find a charging station, you can have up to $50 ARS put on the card at a time. The clerk will charge your card on a space age sensor machine and hand you a receipt with the proof of funds. Now get out there and ride the bus (but that's a whole other post...so ¡buen suerte!

The Office - Coworking Space in Buenos Aires

Back in August, before Sandro and I arrived in Buenos Aires, I got in touch with the lovely people at The Office, a coworking space in Palermo near our future home. They were having a grand opening cocktail affair that week where they would choose from their e-newsletter list and award a one month free membership to the winner. Well guess who won? Sandro! Fortunately for me, he doesn't need office space for work the way I do. The staff at The Office not only let us transfer the gift to my name, but allowed me to push my free month back until October when I would arrive.

So yesterday I went to get started. I was greeted by Melina, a sweetheart receptionist who got me signed up and gave me the tour. The space is gorgeous and has got some sweet perks. Any membership level includes:

o Your own personal desk space of your choosing and use of the office's address for correspondence.
o Your own phone with a personal phone number and voicemail. You can choose to have your calls directed through the receptionist or sent directly to your desk. You'll get 200 minutes of free local landline calls per month and discounted rates for international calls.
o International plug adapters at every desk.
o Access to meeting rooms equipped for video and teleconferencing.
o Mini-muffins and cookies, tea, instant coffee, use of the dishes, microwave, and refrigerator. Better coffee is available for $3 ARS ($.63 USD) per cup.
o Locker access (with a small, refundable deposit for the key).
o Use of the printer, photocopier, fax, and scanner at $.15-.35 USD per page.
o Contracted rates with FedEx for shipping.
o Your membership card also gets you discounts of 10-20% at about 20 local restaurants and a couple of Spanish language schools.
o Various memberships are available with daily, weekly, and monthly rates and The Office currently offers a 3 day free trial to all new potential members.

The idea behind the coworking space is that members are respectful of each other's space and belongings, (so it is a safe place to use your fancy electronics!) but also that members are open to discussion and helping like-minded members with work related issues. Basically, it's a chilled out, friendly atmosphere where it's pretty quiet and you can get some work done while having some decent snacks. It's clean and modern and offers more in amenities than the average freelancer would need and enough to accommodate big time business people who lack a physical office.
The Office is located at Nicaragua 5867, between Carrazza and Ravignani and is open from 8am-8pm during the week and 8am-2pm on Saturdays (closed Sundays because, take a break). The staff is so great, speaks excellent English and Spanish, and is available at info@theofficeba.com.

Getting a Cell Phone SIM card in Buenos Aires

Because technology moves so fast and international laws and customs are inconsistent, I was overwhelmed by the amount of online info regarding cell phones for foreigners in Buenos Aires. Well, I'm going to add to the pile and hope that this updated information lasts long enough to be of use to somebody! There are obviously further details regarding some of these steps, and they are available elsewhere.

One option:

Bring an unlocked, global ready smartphone from your home country. Read current forums regarding specific phone requirements for when you will be coming, as these things are constantly changing and the people will often give up more info than phone companies. Keep your phone in your pocket going through customs at the airport and you will be fine.

Go to the Movistar headquarters at Ave. Santa Fe 1844, between Callao and Riobamba. If you use the subte, take the D (Green) line to the Callao stop. When you come up out of the station, you'll be at the corner of Cordoba and Callao. Walk 3 blocks north to Santa Fe and make a right.

Approach one of the representatives waiting inside. Give them your name and ask for a SIM or microSIM Prepago, depending on your phone. Your name will be put on a list and you will be asked to wait in the lounge on the first floor.

Take the escalator up and you'll see a waiting area surrounded by small, numbered representative's stations. There will be a screen with the list of customer's names and matching box numbers. When your name and box number are highlighted, walk to the corresponding numbered station.

Most of the representatives speak Spanish, so if yours is rusty, simply say that you need a SIM or microSIM. If you're not sure which one you need, hand your phone to the rep and he or she will figure it out.

You will need to provide a passport to begin your registration. After a few minutes of clickity clacketing on the computer, the rep will give you paper work to sign and your SIM card, free of charge. The rep will install the SIM and you will receive a text message immediately stating that your service with Movistar is good to go.
In the morning on a weekday, before it gets busy, this whole process can take as little as half an hour. At lunch time or on weekends the wait can be a bit longer, or so I've heard.

Before you will be able to make calls and send texts, you'll have to buy minutes at a local spot. Most kioskos and locutórios will be able to provide credit virtually and in various amounts. There is a locutório around the corner from the Movistar headquarters, half a block south on Callao. Spend $30 ARS or more and you will pay $2.08/minute for calls and $.70/text.

This is expensive, however, Movistar regularly offers deals with double or more credit for the same price. You will receive credit un regalo via text message immediately after registration. Movistar will also text you with deals throughout the week when it is best to load up and get the most bang for your buck.

Please let me know if you have any questions! It's a lot less nerve-wracking than it sounds...I promise! Also, let me know if you've gone through this process and how it went for you.

xoxo
Amber

Feria de San Telmo

We went to the Feria de San Telmo this past Sunday and it was just as hectic and lovely as I remembered it! From gorgeous but pointless antiques to practical items like scarves and dishes to handicrafts and mass produced "art", there is something for everyone. If not to buy anything, just go to take in the atmosphere!

The feria begins at Defensa and Humberto Primo at Plaza Dorrego and runs all the way up and down Defensa until the wares and their makers run out. We got off the Subte from the C Line at Independencia. If you take this route, you'll come up out of the station at the corner of Independencia and Lima. Directly parallel to Lima are Avenida 9 de Julio and Bernardo de Ingoyen streets. It will look like a huge multi-lane highway with meridians, so cross each section as permitted! After you get through Ingoyen, walk six more blocks until you reach Defensa. Which way you go from there is up to you!

My favorite thing about these outdoor markets is the mix of people, food, handicrafts, junk, and the hustle and bustle. I'm not super skilled at bargaining, but I suppose it's expected at places like this, so get in there and see what you can find. I loved stopping to watch the musicians play every couple of blocks. They deserve a couple pesos for making the walk so cinematic!
Sandro and I enjoyed a cup of orange juice, squeezed right there in front of our faces, and choripan from the outdoor grill out that happens right in the middle of the street. Two words: sausage and bread. For $15 ARS ($3.50 USD) it's enough to hold you over until your inevitably late night dinner!

Traveling to Buenos Aires: Success!

Hola from Buenos Aires! After all the planning and the research and the waiting and waiting, Sandro and I are finally here.

The trip down was mildly insane. The all-day trek from Philadelphia to JFK airport in New York was treacherous, but saved us about $400 total in the end, so worth it. The first leg of the flight was a red eye from JFK to Sao Paolo. I had the pleasure of sitting next to an older, saucy Brazilian woman who had enjoyed her share of scotch on the rocks at the airport bar. I learned all about her boyfriend back in NY, her squelched millions, and the 'family business' she was attending to back in her home country. Needless to say, I didn't sleep much.

A long day of traveling. Guarulhos International Airport, Sao Paolo, Brazil.

HOWEVER...let me give a shout out to TAM Airlines. Talk about classic airline service, the kind you just don't get anymore. We received candy, water, and a pouch containing necessary toiletries and socks the minute we boarded the plane. After take off began dinner service. The pasta and meat were not bad, and I couldn't possibly complain about the cheesecake. In the morning we had a breakfast of medialunas, fruit, and coffee. The second leg of our flight, from Sao Paolo to Buenos Aires, was only 2.5 hours long, but TAM provided lunch! Beef with rice and vegetables and a dulce de leche cake hit the spot. The flight attendants were patient with my lack of Portuguese and were very kind and available. The only downside is that TAM's international planes do not provide any more leg or luggage room than any other domestic plane. It was pretty cramped, but that's Economy Class. We were able to check one large bag each for no additional cost and could bring two carry ons. Overall, I would definitely recommend flying with TAM if you can find a good deal. The perks are worth it!

Another word to those coming down: there are many options for transportation from the airports into the city. I have only used the remises, or radiotaxis, so I can't speak for the buses and other options. However, I believe the price for a private, licensed, clean and courteous private taxi is worth it. When you exit customs, you'll see kiosks offering various types of transportation from various companies. The remises will usually all charge the same, so choose one. Be prepared with the address where you are going and either pesos or dollars in cash. But be aware, you won't get a better rate when paying in dollars. The clerk will lead you outside where your driver will assist in loading your luggage into the car. It is a courtesy to tip the driver 10% at the end of the trip. From Ezeiza Aeropuerto, we paid approximately $35 USD ($160 ARS) and from Aeroparque only $25 USD ($100 ARS). After 30 total hours of traveling, it was a great deal to be whisked away and dropped off at our doorstep!

So an altogether safe and successful trip. More interesting and Buenos Aires-centric details to come!
xoxo
Amber

Buen Viaje!

We left our apartment in Philly this morning. We'll be staying with family in the 'burbs until our flight out to Buenos Aires next week. Sandro and I have lived there together for last couple of years, so it was hard to say good bye to our little home town nest!

Our friends came out to our neighborhood bar before we left to shoot some pool, have some drinks, jam some 90s on the jukebox, and wish us Buen Viaje! It was awesome to see my A team and some friends that I don't see that often all in one place. A friends' birthday party the next night was perfect. Pumpkin cake, boxed wine, and so many more friends. It was a pretty epic send off and for everyone who said they'd miss us, I meant it when I said you're welcome to come down to Argentina anytime!

Hasta luego, mis amigos!

Funny South Philly

All these funny things about South Philly that I take for granted everyday were popping out at me while I was out running errands this morning. I'm going to miss this weird place!

1. Inappropriate "quotation" marks. You'll find a random word wrapped in quotes on nearly every sign in our neighborhood. No one's really sure about why, or how to properly use punctuation, apparently!

2. The Philly Skyline. When I stand at particular intersections I can see the tippy top of it.

3. Outrageous window decor. Every day, holiday, season, weekend, whatever, is a reason to celebrate, and therefore, decorate in South Philly. The old timers take this pretty seriously and it makes it feel like our 'hood is a carnival all the time.

4. Philly street art. Toynbee tiles are one famous example. I've looked out and followed particular artists throughout the years and they've always made my walks around the city more interesting.

Visiting Buenos Aires

Everyday for the year we've been planning our move to Buenos Aires, I've told every single person I know, "Come on down to Buenos Aires! It's so beautiful and fun and awesome and we'll totally put you up and we'll have a great time!". And this is all true! However, one real hurdle to visiting somewhere as far flung as Argentina is that it's not cheap to get there. Here are some things to consider if you are looking to make the trip:

Flights

Air travel is pricey and the flight from the States to Argentina is no exception. From Philadelphia, you'll likely fly three hours to Miami for a layover then another ten hours to Buenos Aires (or ten to Sao Paolo and three to Buenos Aires, something like that. Thirteen hours total). The price of the flight hovers around $1000 round trip per person. This, I realize, is totally insane. However! There are deals to be had and if you're serious about making the trip down, keep an eye out and do your research. Many people have had luck with Aeromexico and their US-South America specials. I'm talking $400 round trip tickets from Houston to BA. Of course, you'd have to get to Houston. But this would still be a really awesome deal.

Passports

You must have a valid passport to get into Argentina. A US passport costs $135 for first time, adult applicants and $110 for renewals and are valid for ten years. Processing times are 4-6 weeks which means it could take up to two months for it to be delivered to your door. For expedited service, you'll pay an additional $60 and a $12.72 delivery fee and can have your passport in 2-3 weeks. So if you don't already have a passport, apply with plenty of time.

Entry Fees

This is some dumb thing the government made up to make money. Citizens of the US, Canada, and Australia must pay an entry fee when visiting Argentina (Argentines pay it when they visit those countries as well). For US citizens, the fee is $160. This fee gets recorded on your passport and is good for reentry for ten years. To speed up this process, the fee must be paid online in advance and the receipt presented to customs officials at Ezeiza Airport upon arrival in BA. Dave has thoroughly explained the process here. Some people have avoided this fee by flying into Montevideo, Uruguay, taking a 3 hour bus ride to Colonia del Sacramento, (across the Rio de la Plata from Buenos Aires) and then a 1 hour ferry trip into Buenos Aires. Prices and convenience of this method may vary and I haven't looked into it, so if this of interest to you, you'll have to do the research!

The Good News!

If you can save up and swing these costs, Buenos Aires can be fairly inexpensive to visit. Just like any big city, there is plenty to do and see and eat that will set you back way too far. But there are also big time ways of doing it on the cheap and easy. For example:
Lunch and dinner out can cost around $10-15 USD per person and this includes bread, LOTS OF MEAT, a glass of wine, and coffee and cookies for dessert.
Domestic beers are usually $2 at any bar.
The buses and subway system are government subsidized and fairly extensive, so a ride anywhere in the city costs only 40 cents!
Also, museums often have discounted rates around $5 on particular days of the week if you're into that.
Let's put it this way...a bottle of decent Argentine Malbec wine can be bought at any corner store for $5! You could definitely get by in this town on not a lot of cheddah!

Check back here because I'm sure there will be updates once we get there. I will be keeping tabs on prices and deals and let you know! Keep in touch if you have any questions about how we worked it out.

'Moving to Buenos Aires' Stoop Sale a Huge Success!

In Philly we don't have yards or garages. We have stoops. So the classic American yard sale or garage sale is demoted to a Stoop Sale, well, because...that's the best we can do. So I spent the entire day yesterday pulling things from our shelves, emptying out closets and kitchen cabinets, and nearly tearing our house apart. I separated items by kind, size, price point, etc. and tagged them. I woke up at 6:30 this morning and hauled it all out to the stoop and arranged it in a presentable way so as to say, "Buy This Junk!". I did some big time social media promotion and Katie helped me put up signs at the street corners and local coffee shop. All the hard work paid off because I got rid of about 2/3 of my stuff! And all the bigger ticket items flew out the door!

Thanks so much to all my generous friends and neighbors for coming buy and giving me cash for my stuff. It's so good to know it's all in great hands!

Like I've said before, the purging feels amazing and I couldn't be happier to be one step closer to our move. But there are a few things that won't fit in my suitcase that I'm really going to miss...

Transition Brain

Our move from Philadelphia to Buenos Aires is happening in four short weeks and as our apartment empties out our furniture and our plans with friends become limited to only a few more days, everyone is asking all the questions:

"Are you excited?"
"Are you nervous?"
"What are you going to do with your stuff?"
"Do you have work lined up?"
"Can we come down and visit?"

The answers to these questions are exciting and nerve racking at the same time. Today I am so excited and just a healthy bit nervous about moving from our home.
Excited because what's not to be excited about?! We've both dreamed of living abroad, and I (more than Sandro, a confident and helpful gentleman) had big time doubts about where, when, and how that could ever happen. But it's happening! We'll be in a new place; a big, beautiful city where the people speak Spanish, there's a street market everyday, the apartments come furnished, and the wine is cheap! We'll explore, work, meet people, and learn something new everyday. We have each other and so far so good. Countdown 27 days!

In Transistion: We've sold our furniture so we're sleeping on the ground and living out of boxes. Miccio Cat doesn't seem to mind.

But nerves too. Because what's not to be nervous about?! No matter how much research, planning, and effort we put in to getting to Argentina, life is unpredictable and the future is a fickle place. We don't really know how it will go. We are leaving behind our apartment where we've built a home of books, food, art, the cat, and comfortable, happy memories. We are leaving our besties who we see everyday for a place where we know a couple of (great) people. Our routine is in upheaval! We'll get lonely, overwhelmed, and lost sometimes and won't be able to call a last minute happy hour at our favorite bar with our long time friends for normalcy and comfort.

But the good outweighs the bad and that's why this move is possible at all. Routine is a centering and balancing thing but can also cause complacency and wanderlust. Age makes routine more necessary so if adventure calls, it's best to pick up the phone and meet it while you can. My friends, thanks to technology, exist in my computer, which is coming with me! Our new apartment will feel like home as soon as Sandro and I are in it together. Feelings of displacement will fade, the same way they did when I moved from my hometown in California to Philly ten years ago. And we are able. We make the life we live, and so far we've worked it out pretty well. Natural disasters and financial collapses are out of our hands. This is our life.

All that too say, moving abroad is a great and difficult thing. If you are considering it, know that a mix of feelings and experiences is pretty normal. If you've done it, I'm probably missing the actual depth of this idea as I haven't even arrived yet and please feel free to comment with your own experiences! How did you feel leaving home at first? How do you feel away being from home now? Or has your new place become home?
xoxo Amber