This is not a bitch sesh, it's a lesson.

When we visited BA last year, we decided we'd move here. Everyday of our trip was magical...so much to see and do. It was charming when the restaurant servers responded to our botched Spanish in English. We didn't have to do laundry. We ate every meal out and tried something new every day. We took cabs when it was too far to walk, which was never because we were so excited to walk. We walked around at night with money and a camera, speaking English all the way back to our room without reserve. We were from Philly, so grit (just straight up dirt) wasn't new, graffiti wasn't new, crazy drivers weren't anything new. We left ready to come back.

We came back a month ago with long term plans. We moved. We got rid of everything, gave up our apartment in Philly, saved up for a year and then moved to BA. We'd live here and work here and meet people for at least a year, at which point we'd probably be so in love we'd stay. Or, if by some chance it didn't work out, we'd go home.

It's been a month and I'm reminded of the very obvious idea that living in a place is not the same as visiting a place. Day to day life is not the same as vacation mode. Watching our budget means taking the bus, having the laundry done less often than we'd like, grocery shopping in a store where we can't tell the difference between milk in a bag and drinkable yogurt. Living in an apartment for a fair price means dealing with leaky faucets and no window screens in the middle of mosquito season. The graffiti (different from the street art) on every single wall ever, the dog shit that doesn't get scooped on the sidewalks, these things are no longer 'quirky' but frustrating. As a privileged person, it's ridiculous that I could even complain. But I think you get my point.

But this city is awesome. It reminds me so much of New York in it's density and activity and the pride the people have in their hometown. I go to New York when I want to have a whirlwind time. I go to NY to hang in Central Park. Everything is big and fast and fun and if something sucks it doesn't matter because everything else is pretty rad. And I can leave. I can go back to Philly where there's just as much fun but it's slower, quieter, more manageable. Comparisons aren't always fair, but this is the best I can do.

And I love South America. I love the Latin American things about this city. I love the late mornings and nights, I love the relaxed attitudes. No one cares what you do for a job, no one cares what you're wearing, and no one cares what you do in your free time. As long as you're around for a coffee in the afternoon, you've got friends. And there's an enormous park here in BA, with a lake and bridges and a rose garden. People rollerblade and run around in the grass with their kids, drinking mate, or making out. You can't beat it.

But the inflation is real. Don't be fooled or think it's less of an issue than it seems. It's a real, daily problem that even affects those of us making dollars. A year ago, everything in this city was approximately 15% less expensive than in Philly. This year, everything is at least that much pricier. Again, I'm talking NY prices. You will not find a 'deal' here on anything but public transportation, in my experience.

So Sandro and I have decided to travel. It's too expensive to live the life we want in this city long term. That may not always be the case (2001 financial crisis re-dux?), but for now it's only getting more expensive by the day. We came here to practice Spanish, meet people, and work less, and that last part can't happen here for much longer. We're having fun, and there's so much more to see, so we're staying in the city until March, then redirecting our mission!

I had no idea this was coming, but I got here and suddenly craved the atmosphere I was born in. Salty California air, green mountains and blue seas, warmth year round. I didn't expect that feeling to come until I got old and cold, but here it is while I'm still young and excited. I want to sit on a porch and look out at the ocean, shaded by huge palm leaves. I want to walk around barefoot. I want a stray dog to come by in the afternoons. I want to live in Nicaragua?

I'm worried this means I'm fickle. But I don't believe it. If it were someone else I'd wonder what they were running from. But I really think I'm just so grateful to have a buddy and freelance work and the wherewithal to finally travel the world and to not be burdened with stuff and to pursue this dream that I was wrong to think I'd want to settle in one place. I'm so eager to soak in every single thing and place and person and food I come across that I have to take it while I can.

Now we've got plans for a trip to Ushuaia in March, the world's southern most city, the closest thing to the Antarctic Circle! Then we'll hop our way back up north, stopping for a month or more at a time in Chile, Peru, Colombia, Nicaragua. We've got permits to hike the Inca Trail to Machu Pichu in May, so THAT'S HAPPENING! If we end up somewhere that we love and that really works, we'll stay longer. If we hear of somewhere great or meet some travelers, we'll detour. We'll keep working and hopefully stop bleeding money in some of these less expensive areas. We'll see more and be open. We'll slow down and get tropical. We'll figure it out as we go instead of making such long term plans ahead of time.

A Weekend in Mendoza

This weekend we took a four day trip to Mendoza, the capital of the province of the same name to the west of Buenos Aires. It butts up against the Chilean border and sits in the foothills of the Andes. It's a dry, warm region this time of year, making it the perfect climate for vineyards. So naturally, this is where a huge portion of Argentine wine comes from. We were lucky enough to take some winery tours, do some tastings, and meet some really awesome people along the way.

The highlight of our trip for me was a bike ride through wine land with a group of international travelers we met at the hostel. We took a bus about 30 minutes out of the city to Lujan de Cuyo, where the Baccus bike rental shop was located only minutes from eight wineries. For $35 ARS/$7 USD we got decent bikes (functioning, though not extremely comfortable!) for the entire day and a map detailing what each spot had to offer and their available tour times.
The first winery we stopped at was Alta Vista. This very professional, medium sized production winery produces red and white wines that are found throughout Argentina. For $30 pesos, we got a tour of the old and new holding tanks and the cellar as well as a tasting of three different wine varieties. Perfecto! Bottles ranged from $65-$2000 ARS.

Our next stop was Pulmary. This tiny, organic, single family winery was the most charming and interesting in my opinion. We got a tour of the tanks and cellar, and were even treated to wine right out of the oak barrels! We ate the most delicious hunks of seared beef I've ever tasted in my life out in the yard. For $30 pesos, we were given two full bottles of wine for tasting for the group (regularly $100 ARS each). By this time, I was feeling a little wobbly getting back on my bike!

Our last stop was Clos de Chacras. We had an excellent guide who took us through the wine making process, throughout the winery, and even into the vineyards. We sat out on their gorgeous deck by a fish pond and shared four bottles, one from each of line. Bottles ranged from $40-180 ARS. The 'tasting' came with cheese, crackers, and raisins and the cost divided among the group came out to only $40 pesos per person!

Other than that, we did a lot of relaxing in the sun. I love dry heat so much, so I felt right at home in Mendoza. We explored the city itself a little bit, and I can't say there's a ton to report. But having met such an awesome group of friends right at the beginning, we had a really good time. Three major asados in three days put me over the edge...So Much Beef And Wine! But who's complaining?

Oh. We also hung out with this dude for a second...

XOOM Money Transfer in Buenos Aires

Money is a funny thing in Argentina. I'm sure you've heard. So what currency you can use and how much of it you'll need to get anything done in this country is a constant guessing game. And you won't get past your own front door without cash. So in short, there's an official currency conversion rate (today, you get $4.82 Argentine pesos for every US dollar you pull out of an ATM), and then there's the Blue Rate (today, 'illegal' money changers will give you $6.20 ARS for every physical US dollar you hand over). So using your regular bank card to get pesos out of the ATM isn't the worst thing in the world, it works. But you are potentially 'losing' money by not taking advantage of the Blue Market. But how do you do that if you don't have physical US dollars in hand?

For now, the recommended way to transfer money from a foreign bank account into your hands in Argentina is through XOOM Money Transfer. This magical service gives you physical pesos at the Blue Market rate from the money that is sitting in your bank account. With some advice from other expats who have tried it, I decided to give it a go.

Here's how it went down:
I went to XOOM's site and followed directions. I sent money from myself (US bank account, US address), to myself (Argentina cash pick up location, Argentina address). There is a fee per transaction which is either $15 USD if you pay with your bank information (account and routing numbers), or $25 USD if you pay with a credit or debit card. I chose the cheaper option. I immediately got a confirmation email followed by a cancellation email. For whatever reason, the transaction seemed shady to Ms. Xoom and I wasn't charged.

A few days later, I tried something different. I sent money from myself (US bank account, US address) to Sandro (Argentina cash pick up location, Argentina address). Makes perfect sense, right, this is what this services does, sends money around the world? Nope. Cancelled. Not charged.

This time I called their appeals hotline. A really helpful dude on the phone verified my information (location, bank, amount, etc.). He had me go through the process of sending the money to myself (from the US to Argentina) online while he was still on the phone with me and then confirmed and approved the transaction immediately. Later that day I received an email stating that my cash was ready for pick up.

There are a few pick up locations in the greater Buenos Aires area. The one closest to me is the More Money Transfer center at Libertad 1057. We got off the Subte from the D Line at Callao, walked 6 blocks east on Cordoba and 2.5 blocks north on Libertad. It's on the right hand side. Just a small storefront with post office type windows and a little seating/waiting area.

When you go, be sure to bring the confirmation number from the email and your passport. I also copied down the amount of pesos I was due to receive just to be sure. We arrived at 1:15pm and took a number. There were 6 people ahead of us, but the lines went quickly so we only waited about 20 minutes. I handed the guy at the window my passport and confirmation number and said, "Pick up, por favor." He made copies and pulled up my transaction. I signed a page saying I knew what I was doing and that I am indeed a grown up and that I was going to be receiving these many pesos. The whole thing was quick, easy, and legit. Consider taking a cab home if you are a non-Spanish speaker walking out of a money transfer center with lots of pesos in the middle of the city where pickpockets and other criminals are prominent. Just a tip!

So the overall result: Even with the $15 USD fee, I 'made' about 24% more pesos on the transaction than I would have received at an ATM. Super good deal if you don't mind a putting in a little time and effort to make it happen.

Buenos Aires Organic Food Market

This weekend, Planeta Joy hosted the Buenos Aires Market, an urban organic food market at Palermo Park. Forty vendors, from local produce to restaurants to specialty prepared food producers, set up tents and offered samples and food for sale.

I tried the fresh pressed wheatgrass at Luz Vida. At $10 ARS, it was a refreshing, vitamin packed cure for my post-Thanksgiving wooziness. After perusing and picking up a free, recyclable bag thanks to the City of Buenos Aires, I purchased a liter of Boudicca Beer's Celtic Red Ale ($30 ARS) to take home to Sandro. For lunch I grabbed a black bean wrap from Artemisia Organic Kitchen ($25 ARS) and plum juice from Purificare Juices ($20 ARS). It was a gorgeous Saturday morning to spend in the park with these delicious foods!

Buenos Aires Market happens once a month. Dates are announced at PlanetaJoy.com Entrance to the market is free and vendors offer sandwiches, empanadas, fresh squeezed juices, and other picnic-perfect options, as well as packaged products for sale. Tables, chairs, and umbrellas are provided for relaxing and enjoying a meal. The city provides health care stations where blood pressure, weight, and other simple measures can be taken. Organic food representatives give talks, workshops, and cooking classes that are free to the public. If a soy empanada doesn't sound good yet, get to the BA Market and try one!

Wine Tour Urbano

Wine Tour Urbano is a group that brings Argentina wine tasting tours into the city. This week, eight local design boutiques in Palermo paired with local wineries to host something of a wine crawl. We met at Honduras y Armenia at 7pm. For $100 ARS (~$20 USD), you'll receive a red wine glass, entry into a raffle, and a map of the eight stops. Take your time on the self guided tour throughout the neighborhood. At each store you'll find the Wine Tour Urbano flag, waving you inside where a table is set offering tastings of 2 to 4 varieties. You'll learn from a representative about where the wine comes from, the year, and it's particular characteristics. Look around the boutique, then move on to the next stop. At 10pm, the tour wraps up and all the participants gather back at the meeting point. The raffle takes place and gifts from the shops and bottles of wine are given away to celebrate.

The wine tour originally costs $150 ARS. However, if you follow @winetoururbano on Twitter, they'll post an offer a few days before the tour. This week, we got $50 ARS off per person for bringing in small toy. Sandro and I spent $40 ARS total on two toys, saving $60 ARS between the two of us.

There were approximately 60 people participating on the tour. But because it is self guided and lasts three hours, there were never more than 6 or 8 at a stop at any given time, so no long waits for wine. Most of the representatives spoke about the wines in Spanish, but were happy to answer questions in English. Also, the tastings are just that...tastings. Don't worry, you won't be drinking eight full glasses of wine! Each stop has crackers as well to get you through.

The raffle was probably the funnest part about the tour. Once everyone had regrouped, the hostess started pulling names from the hat. There were so many prizes that it seemed like everyone got something. We won a bottle of fancy bubbly, so we were happy! This week, because it was the last tour of the season, we were also offered free pizza at the bar down the street! Everyone rushed over, and sure enough, by the time we'd ordered drinks, there were hot pizzas being passed around the room. There was plenty for everyone and the staff was really on top of it.

What I loved about Wine Tour Urbano was that it was the most organized and functional event I think we've been to here in BA. It started on time, it was well laid out and informative, and the promises of discounts and free food were kept. It was quite a deal at only $100 ARS!

A Buenos Aires Tango

Our British girl, Stephanie, invited us out to a milonga in San Telmo on Sunday. These old tango halls offer a more authentic experience than the big shows put on for hundreds of dollars for tourists. The Buenos Ayres Club at Peru 571 (between Mexico and Venezuela) is a simple, dim, old timey theater with a stage, a dance floor, and tables and chairs along the perimeter. There is a $30 ARS (~$6 USD) cover charge and a bar in the back that offers bottled beer, fernet y cola, and generous glasses of wine for $25-$35 ARS a piece.

At Buenos Ayres Club, you're welcome to take lessons, dance, or just watch. We showed up at 11pm just in time for the live music and open dance floor. We sat and watched a three piece band with male and female vocalists perform native tango songs. The dancers ranged from older local couples in love to younger students of the dance. It was an absolutely pleasant, classic argentine, and inexpensive evening!

A Typical Day Off in Buenos Aires

Sandro and I thought we'd wander and check out a few different spots throughout the city today. After walking through Chacarita last week for all it's amazing street art, we went back to see Parque Los Andes, the weekend feria, and the famous cemetery there.
On the way we walked through Mercado de Las Pulgas, the antique furniture flea market. The warehouse has about a thousand beautiful, vintage furniture pieces, plus knickknacks, clothes, and art from the 1940s-80s. I dream of an apartment furnished by Las Pulgas!

We moved on to Chacarita and walked the edge of the park, browsing through the clothes, incense, tools, and jewelry of the Feria de Parque Los Andes. I purchased a cup of mate and was so satisfied for only $4 ARS. Around the corner was the cemetery. It was just as huge and beautiful as the more popular cemetery in Recoleta, but without tourists or an entrance fee! No Evita here, but we did run into Carlos Gardel, Argentina's most beloved tango singer!

Don't tell anyone, but we ended our outing with a stop at Walmart. We thought maybe we'd find decent prices on household items or familiar fits in t-shirts and other basics. We did find these things, but it definitely wasn't worth it. Cheap products at dumb prices and inefficient customer service at a far-out location are not reasons to make the trek. Stick to your neighborhood shops and you'll be better off!

Cacerolazo - Protest in Buenos Aires

On Thursday night, November 8th (#8N), hundreds of thousands of Argentines and Argentine supporters around the world took to the streets in protest of the government of President Cristina Kirchner de Fernandez. This protest wasn't the first of it's kind, but the largest. We met the majority down at Obelisco in the center of Buenos Aires to check it out and lend our support.



A tiny portion of the protest in Buenos Aires.

These demonstrations, called 'cacerolazos', have become more common in the past couple of years. People hang out their balconies, flood central streets, and meet at significant intersections, banging pots and pans with wooden spoons and shaking water bottles filled with coins to call attention to governmental injustices. The President ratings have plummeted since her second election in 2011 while inflation rates have soared, corruption and dishonesty run rampant, the economy and international trade have been suppressed, and the media has been consistently censored.

Our perception of the cacerolazo was that these protests are peaceful. The protesters come from all backgrounds; mothers with babies, old couples, families, teenagers, locals, and foreigners. The media is present, but it's not about them. The people are organized (these protests are organized through Facebook and Twitter and businesses shut down to accommodate them); they are prepared (there is a cohesive message expressed through signs, banners, slogans projected on buildings and monuments, balloons, air horns, songs, and of course, pots and pans); and they love their country (the Argentine flag represents the strength of the people, not those in power). The problem is the people don't have a strong enough opposition leader, someone to actually run against Cristina in the 2015 election. For now they have their numbers and their voices.

Iguazú Falls, Argentina

Sandro and I went to Iguazú Falls for a few days this week. The National Park borders Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay. The bulk of it is located in the province of Misiones in Argentina, about a two hour flight from Buenos Aires. We got a sweet flight/hotel/tour package online and ended up staying in the Esturión Hotel within Puerto Iguazú city. It was insanely luxurious and just a short drive from the falls.

A word about booking a tour: DON'T!
Our tour guide arrived at our hotel at 7:30am, an hour early, and then left without us! Even though we had pre-booked and paid for the tour, we decided to hop in a cab and forget meeting up with the group. And we are glad we did. Rather than get caught up with one hundred teenagers or oldies, pointing and eating and generally lagging, we were able to see everything on our own time. The tours generally last 9 hours, but you can see everything there is to see at Iguazú in about four or five.

As with the tour, many people will try to sell you many unnecessary things. You do not need a rain coat. You will get misty if you get up closest to the falls, but you'll want to in the heat, and you'll dry in two minutes.
You do not need to pay $120 ARS for a taxi to and from the park. The Rio Uruguay bus makes pick ups throughout the city every morning and return trips throughout the day straight to your accommodations. Bus tickets are $25 ARS per person per trip.

Also, get there early! The park opens at 8am and the sun and heat are generally pleasant this time of year, until about 12 noon when it starts to get brutal. We stayed from 8am to 12:30pm and it was perfect.

Some things you will need:
o $130 ARS entrance fee per person if you are from outside South America. If you are from this continent, you'll get a significant break.
o Hiking/running shoes. The paths are generally level and well maintained, but you'll be on your feet for a few hours.
o Sunscreen, a hat or sunglasses, bug spray. The sun is close and hardcore. The bugs are not awful, but you'll want to keep them at bay.
o Lunch. There are kioskos throughout the park that offer expensive, crappy snacks. I suggest packing something decent to get you through the morning. Also, there are water fountains (cold and hot for mate!) so bring a water bottle.

But most importantly, be prepared for a lovely experience! The falls really are unlike anything else (sorry, Niagara!). The park is rainforest-like and we saw a toucan, coatis, iguanas, and about one billion butterflies! And rainbows! If it sounds like a dreamy paradise, that's because it is.

SPOILER ALERT!





More photos here.

Buenos Aires Street Art

Sandro, our girl Petra, and I meant to do the Buenos Aires Street Art Tour, but sometimes in this city, things don't happen when they say they do! So lucky for us, we self-guided the tour and wound up having a really chilled out adventure!
We started at Av. Federico Lacroze and Cramer, right by the Colegiales train station. We used this excellent online street art map as a guide. We spent all afternoon roaming through this quiet and lovely neighborhood getting up close with some of these famous pieces. Here are some of my favorites:

For a massive dose of top notch street painting without the long walk, get yourself to El Mercado de Las Pulgas at Dorrego y Av. Alvarez Thomas. This enormous warehouse is an antique furniture flea market and it's outside walls are covered in murals!

Make Empanadas at Home!

Empanadas are ubiquitous in Buenos Aires. They are breakfast, lunch, merienda, dinner, and any meal or snack in between. They are perfectly hand-held, bite-sized, pockets of deliciousness that are cheap and easy, just the way I like it. They are baked or fried, doughy and crispy, and stuffed with meats, cheeses, and veggies, and Sandro and I indulge a couple times a week. At $4-5 pesos (~$1 USD) a pop, you can't really beat this perfect little food. So with a few simple ingredients and some patience, I made them at home. Here's how it went:

I got the cheap empanada wrappers from the grocery store, a handful of fresh mushrooms, some sharp cheese, and black beans. This is not a traditional empanada stuffing, but I thought I'd be creative! Typically empanadas will come stuffed with carne (beef), jamón y queso (ham and cheese), pollo (chicken), cebolla y queso (onion and cheese), atún (tuna), caprese (cheese, tomato, and oregano), or a few other combinations.
I started by sauteeing the mushrooms in olive oil with garlic, salt, and black pepper so that they were just browned. I lined my ingredients up into a conveyor line that would have made Henry Ford proud.

I took each empanada wrapper and topped it with a pinch of cheese and mushrooms. I decided to leave the beans out as they were too big and seemed excessive. I expected the wrappers to be difficult to work with but they were actually super easy! I used a take-out menu that showed drawings of the different styles as a guide to wrapping them up. Traditionally, each filling is wrapped in a specific style, so as to tell them apart when ready to eat. I only used one kind of filling, but experimented with the various styles for fun.

I would have preferred to bake the empanadas, but as is the norm here, our oven is old timey and I am too nervous to light it. So they went into a pan of vegetable oil over medium heat. I flipped them after a couple minutes, or until they were nice and crispy brown. When both sides looked good, I put the empanadas on a plate with a paper towel to soak up some of the excess oil and let them cool for a minute.

And so Sandro and I enjoyed our own delicious hand made empanadas right here at home. I made six for about $10 ARS ($2.10 USD). About the price for two if we would have bought them out!

Want a Massage in Buenos Aires?

Look no further.

Sandro and I spent a fair amount of time working last week, sitting in chairs in front of computers at The Office and by Friday had pretty achy backs. We couldn't decide whether we should splurge on something as luxurious as a massage but knew we had to deal with this situation before it got worse. Our co-worker, Toby, heard good things about Jen Klueppel at BA Life Centre, and that was as good a recommendation as any. We emailed her and had appointments scheduled for the very next Monday.

BA Life Centre is an apartment-turned-yoga-and-massage-studio at French 2647, Suite 5E in Barrio Norte. It's pretty and calming and has all of the equipment and products you want out of a holistic wellness center.

But let me tell you exactly why you want a massage from Jen:

1. First of all, she is STRONG. Sandro's appointment was first, and he came out of his massage feeling like a wet noodle. After she spent an hour working on his over-run calves and sore back, she spent another hour with me, sparing me nothing. Jen got into all the knots and muscles that have been bothering me and found a few I didn't even know were there. She used some typical Swedish massage moves but with impressive strength and endurance. Between the steam-roller-forearm-up-the-back and the 100-pounds-of-elbow-pressure-in-the-butt, I have been tenderized like a a fine flank.

2. Jen's got buena onda. Her massage room is small and cozy, with natural light muted by colorful, flowing curtains. The window looks out on a courtyard with trees and a pool, so no colectivos and rowdy city noises to ruin the mood. The massage table is comfortable, with that killer donut pillow I love and super crisp and clean white sheets. And the music was quite a pleasant surprise. Jen was jamming mellow tunes from Leonard Cohen, Feist, and Oasis, not that tripped out, overly meditative music that has accompanied every massage I've ever had. I felt relaxed, I felt care-free, and I felt something familiar.

3. Also, Jen provides an excellent massage at an excellent price. An hour long massage will cost you $185 ARS/$40 USD, and she accepts either currency (though, who wouldn't prefer dollars?). This is half what I'd expect to pay in the States and is nothing compared to how great I feel today!

If you want to get in touch with Jen, email her at info@balifecentre.com.

Blue Market Money Exchange in Buenos Aires

"Cambio!"

Hombre en La Calle here. Let’s talk about bringing money from your native country and exchanging it in Buenos Aires.

Say you have a fistful of Euros that you wanted to exchange when you landed at Ezeiza but didn’t get around to it. You could probably get around by paying for your restaurant bills and mom-and-pop store expenses with your native money, but this will immediately identify you as a tourist, and if you don’t do your exchange rate homework, this is a wonderful way for someone to cheat you out of the right amount of change. So what next?

You could go the safe, legal route and exchange your money at a bank. But due to inflation, the country’s official exchange rate differs from the informal exchange rate. So what if you want to get the best deal on exchanging your native money for pesos?

First, if you have US dollars, check these exchange rates out. Listed there are the official (Banco Central de la República Argentina [BCRA]), actual (private banks), and informal exchange rates for the ARS (Argentinian Peso) and US Dollar. That informal rate will be the one you’re looking for as you begin your quest.

Second, if you interact with people who routinely work with foreign currencies (such as people in hospitality and tourism--like if you’re staying at a hotel), ask them if they’ll exchange with you.

Third, you could walk down to Calle Florida and change your money on the blue market.

THE BLUE MARKET

Called so because it’s based around blue-chip swaps, the blue market is Argentina’s underground money exchange. In Buenos Aires, the blue market’s representatives can be heard at the lower street numbers (< 500) on Calle Florida, the middle of the downtown shopping district. There, you’ll walk down the busy, store-lined pedestrian street as locals and tourists alike browse around for upscale clothing, perfumes, and gadgets. You’ll want to plant yourself among the throngs of people and listen.

And inevitably, you’ll hear the soft melody of the arbolitos--street-level representatives--who call out “cambio, cambio” without trying to attract attention. Arbolitos come in various guises. Some look a little destitute, but wear jewelry, and they might sport sunglasses. If you think that kind of person looks shady, I don’t blame you. Others might wear business-casual attire or even suits. Talk to whom you feel comfortable with.

If you casually approach one, they’ll speak to you in Spanish, and probably broken English. They will ask you how much you want to exchange and what denomination. You can ask them what the tipo de cambio (exchange rate) is and they’ll probably give you a number that is pretty close to (and maybe a little less than) the unofficial exchange rate that you already looked up.

If the arbolito is happy with you and your intended amount and denomination, he or she will ask you to follow them to a cueva (cave--colloquially like hideout), which will be somewhere close but off the street. Don’t trust anyone who wants to exchange money right then and there. That’s just dumb. Once in the cueva, you’ll be able to exchange your money.

I did cambio azul twice in mid-October, 2012.

The first time, I walked down Calle Florida and listened for the soft “cambio, cambio.” I talked to a woman at the 200 block of Calle Florida who looked about 19 years old. She was wearing worn out clothing and looked like a local version of a meth head. When I asked, she gave me a quote of 6.00 pesos per US dollar. I said thanks and moved on. A second woman, about 20 meters south, on the 100 block, quoted me 6.10. And she was wearing a business suit kind of outfit, like a flight attendant’s uniform, and talked to me more directly. I said I had $100 USD to exchange to pesos. She led me into a small galeria and beckoned me to go to a guy who had a “legit” casa de cambio. He met me in the galeria hallway and then walked behind his money desk window. He counted out my money and showed me the arithmetic on a calculator and then counted out the pesos. I said thanks and exited the galeria.

The second time, I walked down Calle Florida with $150 USD. I heard the “cambio, cambio” from these two meaty looking guys in suits who were standing outside of an electronics store. I got a safe vibe from them so I stopped to talk to one of them. He showed me the quote on his cell phone ($6.10 pesos per 1 USD again) and I said yeah, and he asked me to follow him. This time, I followed him around the block on the street into an apartment/office building. I felt like this was kind of shady but I went anyway. He took me up to the tenth floor in an old rickety elevator. We stood in the hallway outside of a door for about 5 minutes. After a few minutes, the arbolito left. I stood there alone. Two people came out at different intervals. There was an electronic lock on the door. Then finally someone opened it and a guy inside beckoned me in. It was an office with a retrofitted money window (i.e. thick glass and bars). I took out my money and the guy behind the window did the same thing as last time--he counted it, tapped the math on the calculator and showed me, and counted out the pesos. I took them and left the building.

Ultimately, I felt pretty safe doing this, but it is technically illegal. I’m not sure what the consequences of getting caught are, and I don’t want to. So my main advice on getting a great deal for currency exchange is to start by asking other expats that you trust. Chances are, they might even know of a person who comes to your place to change money. That’s convenience.

The Blue Market is not exactly legal, but it’s kind of too big to fail prosecute. If the government were to crack down on this, it would disturb the country’s financial and political economy, and at its current precarious standing, that might be disastrous. So the blue market continues. Just the other day, I watched a short exposé on the exchange at Calle Florida. Check it out.

Hombre en La Calle out, yo.

Guest post by Sandro.

The Farmer's Market at Plaza Armenia

Last Saturday afternoon, Sandro and I happened upon the farmer's market on the north side of Plaza Armenia (Nicaragua between Armenia and Malabia). The block begins and ends with two huge produce vendors and is filled with stands selling fresh and cured meats, cheeses, nuts and grains, and more. We headed back this week and got some awesome deals on a little bit of everything to get us through the week.

Here's the breakdown:

+ 1/4 kilo muzzarella
+ 1/4 kilo queso campo
+ 100 grams jamón crudo/proscuitto
+ 1 sopressata/more cured pig
= $54 ARS

+ 5 bananas
+ 2 tomates
+ 1 qt. arándanos/blueberries
+ 2 things of espinaca/spinach
= $34 ARS

+ 1/2 kilo avenda/oats
+ 100 grams almendras/almonds
= $17 ARS

For a grand total of $105 ARS/$22 USD. The great thing about all of this is that A) It's so much less expensive than many of the verdularias or carnicerias in our 'hood, and B) It's so much less expensive than what we would pay back in the States for these same items, particularly the meats and cheeses.

So get there between 11am and 2pm. Before or after and you may miss some of the vendors. The produce stands get long lines, so grab a number and wait to be called. You shouldn't have to wait more than 15 minutes and there are always a ton of cute dogs in the park to look at.
Besos,
Amber

5 Better than Average Eats in Buenos Aires

I couldn’t possibly review every tiny café, almacén, bar, tienda, etc. that I experience in my daily routine, living and working in Buenos Aires. Not because I go out constantly, but because just walking through the city, they are everywhere and they all start to look the same. In my short time here, I have, however, come across a few spectacular spots that are worth checking out.

1. Lo de Roberto
A friend said, “There’s this tiny place where this old guy sings…” and I was sold. Lo de Roberto, or El Boliche de Roberto, truly is a hidden gem. At the corner of Bulnes and Juan Domingo Perón, you could easily miss the unassuming store front if you weren’t looking for it. But look for it! Because the old timey bottles that adorn the walls are enough to make you feel cinematic. After a cheap fernet y cola and two hours past your bedtime, expect a duo of strapping young Argentines to take front and center, to crack mild mannered jokes between traditionally appreciated tango songs. No mic, just an acoustic guitar and a classic voice. It’s as romantic as it sounds in a dingy old place with 100 years of family history telling the stories. And if you’re lucky, the old guy will come out and sing.
Image via Jared Johnson

2. D’accordo
The next morning head over to D’accordo at Paraguay and Bonpland in Palermo Hollywood. It looks a lot like all the other cafes with chalkboard promociones and decent outside seating. But the great thing about it is that the high ceilings, the enormous windows, and the ample tables for two and four make it a quiet and lovely place to enjoy a café in the morning or afternoon. What’s better is a café con leche y dos AMAZING medialunas will only set you back $14 pesos, which is lower than most places, particularly in that area. And the medialunas really are that good. I’m talking huge, and perfectly airy with a light, crispy outside covered in that sweet, sticky whatever-it-is. A shot of jugo de naranja and one of agua con gas and I’m good.
Image via Lost Girls

3. El Nono Amigo
In the same ‘hood (and every ten steps of every block ever) you’ll find another one of Argentina’s prized possessions: empanadas. At El Nono Amigo, you may find the typical varieties like carne and jamón y queso. But you will also find some delicious and (gasp!) vegetarian delights at $6 pesos a pop. The Amigo uses herbed artichoke hearts and eggplant to stuff their little hot pockets and they are as delicious as they sound. Grab a couple fresh out of the oven for lunch or stock up on a dozen for $60 ARS.
Image via Laylita

4. Sugar
If you’ve had enough Argentine specialties and need a little expat flavor, Sugar bar at Armenia and Costa Rica will deliver. This dark, no frills spot offers 2 pintas de Quilmes for $35 pesos between 7pm and midnight every day of the week. For me, the real star of their menu is the chicken burrito. All I want in life is black beans, rice, guacamole, pico de gallo, and some grilled chicken in a big, fat tortilla. It’s hard to come by around here, but Sugar does it right at $45 pesos. It is huge so devour half and save the other half for tomorrow’s lunch. Stick around for fútbol or breaking US news on one of their giant flatscreens for more reminders of why you came here in the first place.
Image via Kekanto

5. Cossab
If legit beer is what you want and what you need, Cossab at José Mármol and Carlos Calvo in Boedo make their own. From blonde to red to brunette, Cossab crafts what have been called the city’s “finest brews.” They also offer drafts from local pub Antares as well as a large bottle selection from around the world. Slighty divey but honestly charming, Cossab also provides a decent menu including all the usuals; pizza, picada, y parilla. At $25-27 pesos a pint, try the Rubia and the Scotch for two totally different but totally perfect beers.
Image via Yours Truly

Got a place to add to my list? Let me know!
Besos,
Amber

Get Your SUBE Card!

After spending two pesos per bus trip this week, a friend tipped us off to the wonders of the SUBE card.

In Buenos Aires, public transportation is subsidized by the government, which is awesome and means that the most you pay is $2.50 ARS for the subte or $2 ARS for the bus ($.42-.52 USD) per ride. However, you can get an even better rate than this if you purchase a SUBE card. It costs $20-$25 ARS at first, but with it, each bus ride is either $1.20, $1.25, or $1.30 ARS depending on how far you are going. So it will take you a few rides to make up for the initial cost, but will save you loads down the road. Not to mention the headache of coming up with the proper coins needed.
Like many things in this lovely town, something as ubiquitous and practical as a SUBE card couldn't possibly be easy to come by! Sandro and I had stopped in six kioskos by the time we both obtained and charged up our cards. I write this to possibly make it easier for those in our same position!

We are in Palermo, so I only know the options in this neighborhood. However, I have come across this handy website that may or may not be accurate but is probably a good place to start if you live elsewhere. In Palermo, there are quite a few locutórios along Ave. Santa Fe. These little shops offer snacks, long distance telephone use, and internet by the minute. Some of them also sell SUBE cards. You'll just have to duck in and ask. You'll fill out a small application with your name, address, and passport/DNI number and pay the $20 ARS. However, your card will not come loaded with funds and the locutório may not charge SUBE cards. So you will have to find a kiosko that does. There are many along Santa Fe that sport the SUBE logo in their windows. These places may or may not be able to charge your card at that time, so again, you'll just have to ask. When you find a charging station, you can have up to $50 ARS put on the card at a time. The clerk will charge your card on a space age sensor machine and hand you a receipt with the proof of funds. Now get out there and ride the bus (but that's a whole other post...so ¡buen suerte!

The Office - Coworking Space in Buenos Aires

Back in August, before Sandro and I arrived in Buenos Aires, I got in touch with the lovely people at The Office, a coworking space in Palermo near our future home. They were having a grand opening cocktail affair that week where they would choose from their e-newsletter list and award a one month free membership to the winner. Well guess who won? Sandro! Fortunately for me, he doesn't need office space for work the way I do. The staff at The Office not only let us transfer the gift to my name, but allowed me to push my free month back until October when I would arrive.

So yesterday I went to get started. I was greeted by Melina, a sweetheart receptionist who got me signed up and gave me the tour. The space is gorgeous and has got some sweet perks. Any membership level includes:

o Your own personal desk space of your choosing and use of the office's address for correspondence.
o Your own phone with a personal phone number and voicemail. You can choose to have your calls directed through the receptionist or sent directly to your desk. You'll get 200 minutes of free local landline calls per month and discounted rates for international calls.
o International plug adapters at every desk.
o Access to meeting rooms equipped for video and teleconferencing.
o Mini-muffins and cookies, tea, instant coffee, use of the dishes, microwave, and refrigerator. Better coffee is available for $3 ARS ($.63 USD) per cup.
o Locker access (with a small, refundable deposit for the key).
o Use of the printer, photocopier, fax, and scanner at $.15-.35 USD per page.
o Contracted rates with FedEx for shipping.
o Your membership card also gets you discounts of 10-20% at about 20 local restaurants and a couple of Spanish language schools.
o Various memberships are available with daily, weekly, and monthly rates and The Office currently offers a 3 day free trial to all new potential members.

The idea behind the coworking space is that members are respectful of each other's space and belongings, (so it is a safe place to use your fancy electronics!) but also that members are open to discussion and helping like-minded members with work related issues. Basically, it's a chilled out, friendly atmosphere where it's pretty quiet and you can get some work done while having some decent snacks. It's clean and modern and offers more in amenities than the average freelancer would need and enough to accommodate big time business people who lack a physical office.
The Office is located at Nicaragua 5867, between Carrazza and Ravignani and is open from 8am-8pm during the week and 8am-2pm on Saturdays (closed Sundays because, take a break). The staff is so great, speaks excellent English and Spanish, and is available at info@theofficeba.com.

Getting a Cell Phone SIM card in Buenos Aires

Because technology moves so fast and international laws and customs are inconsistent, I was overwhelmed by the amount of online info regarding cell phones for foreigners in Buenos Aires. Well, I'm going to add to the pile and hope that this updated information lasts long enough to be of use to somebody! There are obviously further details regarding some of these steps, and they are available elsewhere.

One option:

Bring an unlocked, global ready smartphone from your home country. Read current forums regarding specific phone requirements for when you will be coming, as these things are constantly changing and the people will often give up more info than phone companies. Keep your phone in your pocket going through customs at the airport and you will be fine.

Go to the Movistar headquarters at Ave. Santa Fe 1844, between Callao and Riobamba. If you use the subte, take the D (Green) line to the Callao stop. When you come up out of the station, you'll be at the corner of Cordoba and Callao. Walk 3 blocks north to Santa Fe and make a right.

Approach one of the representatives waiting inside. Give them your name and ask for a SIM or microSIM Prepago, depending on your phone. Your name will be put on a list and you will be asked to wait in the lounge on the first floor.

Take the escalator up and you'll see a waiting area surrounded by small, numbered representative's stations. There will be a screen with the list of customer's names and matching box numbers. When your name and box number are highlighted, walk to the corresponding numbered station.

Most of the representatives speak Spanish, so if yours is rusty, simply say that you need a SIM or microSIM. If you're not sure which one you need, hand your phone to the rep and he or she will figure it out.

You will need to provide a passport to begin your registration. After a few minutes of clickity clacketing on the computer, the rep will give you paper work to sign and your SIM card, free of charge. The rep will install the SIM and you will receive a text message immediately stating that your service with Movistar is good to go.
In the morning on a weekday, before it gets busy, this whole process can take as little as half an hour. At lunch time or on weekends the wait can be a bit longer, or so I've heard.

Before you will be able to make calls and send texts, you'll have to buy minutes at a local spot. Most kioskos and locutórios will be able to provide credit virtually and in various amounts. There is a locutório around the corner from the Movistar headquarters, half a block south on Callao. Spend $30 ARS or more and you will pay $2.08/minute for calls and $.70/text.

This is expensive, however, Movistar regularly offers deals with double or more credit for the same price. You will receive credit un regalo via text message immediately after registration. Movistar will also text you with deals throughout the week when it is best to load up and get the most bang for your buck.

Please let me know if you have any questions! It's a lot less nerve-wracking than it sounds...I promise! Also, let me know if you've gone through this process and how it went for you.

xoxo
Amber

Feria de San Telmo

We went to the Feria de San Telmo this past Sunday and it was just as hectic and lovely as I remembered it! From gorgeous but pointless antiques to practical items like scarves and dishes to handicrafts and mass produced "art", there is something for everyone. If not to buy anything, just go to take in the atmosphere!

The feria begins at Defensa and Humberto Primo at Plaza Dorrego and runs all the way up and down Defensa until the wares and their makers run out. We got off the Subte from the C Line at Independencia. If you take this route, you'll come up out of the station at the corner of Independencia and Lima. Directly parallel to Lima are Avenida 9 de Julio and Bernardo de Ingoyen streets. It will look like a huge multi-lane highway with meridians, so cross each section as permitted! After you get through Ingoyen, walk six more blocks until you reach Defensa. Which way you go from there is up to you!

My favorite thing about these outdoor markets is the mix of people, food, handicrafts, junk, and the hustle and bustle. I'm not super skilled at bargaining, but I suppose it's expected at places like this, so get in there and see what you can find. I loved stopping to watch the musicians play every couple of blocks. They deserve a couple pesos for making the walk so cinematic!
Sandro and I enjoyed a cup of orange juice, squeezed right there in front of our faces, and choripan from the outdoor grill out that happens right in the middle of the street. Two words: sausage and bread. For $15 ARS ($3.50 USD) it's enough to hold you over until your inevitably late night dinner!

Traveling to Buenos Aires: Success!

Hola from Buenos Aires! After all the planning and the research and the waiting and waiting, Sandro and I are finally here.

The trip down was mildly insane. The all-day trek from Philadelphia to JFK airport in New York was treacherous, but saved us about $400 total in the end, so worth it. The first leg of the flight was a red eye from JFK to Sao Paolo. I had the pleasure of sitting next to an older, saucy Brazilian woman who had enjoyed her share of scotch on the rocks at the airport bar. I learned all about her boyfriend back in NY, her squelched millions, and the 'family business' she was attending to back in her home country. Needless to say, I didn't sleep much.

A long day of traveling. Guarulhos International Airport, Sao Paolo, Brazil.

HOWEVER...let me give a shout out to TAM Airlines. Talk about classic airline service, the kind you just don't get anymore. We received candy, water, and a pouch containing necessary toiletries and socks the minute we boarded the plane. After take off began dinner service. The pasta and meat were not bad, and I couldn't possibly complain about the cheesecake. In the morning we had a breakfast of medialunas, fruit, and coffee. The second leg of our flight, from Sao Paolo to Buenos Aires, was only 2.5 hours long, but TAM provided lunch! Beef with rice and vegetables and a dulce de leche cake hit the spot. The flight attendants were patient with my lack of Portuguese and were very kind and available. The only downside is that TAM's international planes do not provide any more leg or luggage room than any other domestic plane. It was pretty cramped, but that's Economy Class. We were able to check one large bag each for no additional cost and could bring two carry ons. Overall, I would definitely recommend flying with TAM if you can find a good deal. The perks are worth it!

Another word to those coming down: there are many options for transportation from the airports into the city. I have only used the remises, or radiotaxis, so I can't speak for the buses and other options. However, I believe the price for a private, licensed, clean and courteous private taxi is worth it. When you exit customs, you'll see kiosks offering various types of transportation from various companies. The remises will usually all charge the same, so choose one. Be prepared with the address where you are going and either pesos or dollars in cash. But be aware, you won't get a better rate when paying in dollars. The clerk will lead you outside where your driver will assist in loading your luggage into the car. It is a courtesy to tip the driver 10% at the end of the trip. From Ezeiza Aeropuerto, we paid approximately $35 USD ($160 ARS) and from Aeroparque only $25 USD ($100 ARS). After 30 total hours of traveling, it was a great deal to be whisked away and dropped off at our doorstep!

So an altogether safe and successful trip. More interesting and Buenos Aires-centric details to come!
xoxo
Amber

Buen Viaje!

We left our apartment in Philly this morning. We'll be staying with family in the 'burbs until our flight out to Buenos Aires next week. Sandro and I have lived there together for last couple of years, so it was hard to say good bye to our little home town nest!

Our friends came out to our neighborhood bar before we left to shoot some pool, have some drinks, jam some 90s on the jukebox, and wish us Buen Viaje! It was awesome to see my A team and some friends that I don't see that often all in one place. A friends' birthday party the next night was perfect. Pumpkin cake, boxed wine, and so many more friends. It was a pretty epic send off and for everyone who said they'd miss us, I meant it when I said you're welcome to come down to Argentina anytime!

Hasta luego, mis amigos!

Funny South Philly

All these funny things about South Philly that I take for granted everyday were popping out at me while I was out running errands this morning. I'm going to miss this weird place!

1. Inappropriate "quotation" marks. You'll find a random word wrapped in quotes on nearly every sign in our neighborhood. No one's really sure about why, or how to properly use punctuation, apparently!

2. The Philly Skyline. When I stand at particular intersections I can see the tippy top of it.

3. Outrageous window decor. Every day, holiday, season, weekend, whatever, is a reason to celebrate, and therefore, decorate in South Philly. The old timers take this pretty seriously and it makes it feel like our 'hood is a carnival all the time.

4. Philly street art. Toynbee tiles are one famous example. I've looked out and followed particular artists throughout the years and they've always made my walks around the city more interesting.

Visiting Buenos Aires

Everyday for the year we've been planning our move to Buenos Aires, I've told every single person I know, "Come on down to Buenos Aires! It's so beautiful and fun and awesome and we'll totally put you up and we'll have a great time!". And this is all true! However, one real hurdle to visiting somewhere as far flung as Argentina is that it's not cheap to get there. Here are some things to consider if you are looking to make the trip:

Flights

Air travel is pricey and the flight from the States to Argentina is no exception. From Philadelphia, you'll likely fly three hours to Miami for a layover then another ten hours to Buenos Aires (or ten to Sao Paolo and three to Buenos Aires, something like that. Thirteen hours total). The price of the flight hovers around $1000 round trip per person. This, I realize, is totally insane. However! There are deals to be had and if you're serious about making the trip down, keep an eye out and do your research. Many people have had luck with Aeromexico and their US-South America specials. I'm talking $400 round trip tickets from Houston to BA. Of course, you'd have to get to Houston. But this would still be a really awesome deal.

Passports

You must have a valid passport to get into Argentina. A US passport costs $135 for first time, adult applicants and $110 for renewals and are valid for ten years. Processing times are 4-6 weeks which means it could take up to two months for it to be delivered to your door. For expedited service, you'll pay an additional $60 and a $12.72 delivery fee and can have your passport in 2-3 weeks. So if you don't already have a passport, apply with plenty of time.

Entry Fees

This is some dumb thing the government made up to make money. Citizens of the US, Canada, and Australia must pay an entry fee when visiting Argentina (Argentines pay it when they visit those countries as well). For US citizens, the fee is $160. This fee gets recorded on your passport and is good for reentry for ten years. To speed up this process, the fee must be paid online in advance and the receipt presented to customs officials at Ezeiza Airport upon arrival in BA. Dave has thoroughly explained the process here. Some people have avoided this fee by flying into Montevideo, Uruguay, taking a 3 hour bus ride to Colonia del Sacramento, (across the Rio de la Plata from Buenos Aires) and then a 1 hour ferry trip into Buenos Aires. Prices and convenience of this method may vary and I haven't looked into it, so if this of interest to you, you'll have to do the research!

The Good News!

If you can save up and swing these costs, Buenos Aires can be fairly inexpensive to visit. Just like any big city, there is plenty to do and see and eat that will set you back way too far. But there are also big time ways of doing it on the cheap and easy. For example:
Lunch and dinner out can cost around $10-15 USD per person and this includes bread, LOTS OF MEAT, a glass of wine, and coffee and cookies for dessert.
Domestic beers are usually $2 at any bar.
The buses and subway system are government subsidized and fairly extensive, so a ride anywhere in the city costs only 40 cents!
Also, museums often have discounted rates around $5 on particular days of the week if you're into that.
Let's put it this way...a bottle of decent Argentine Malbec wine can be bought at any corner store for $5! You could definitely get by in this town on not a lot of cheddah!

Check back here because I'm sure there will be updates once we get there. I will be keeping tabs on prices and deals and let you know! Keep in touch if you have any questions about how we worked it out.

'Moving to Buenos Aires' Stoop Sale a Huge Success!

In Philly we don't have yards or garages. We have stoops. So the classic American yard sale or garage sale is demoted to a Stoop Sale, well, because...that's the best we can do. So I spent the entire day yesterday pulling things from our shelves, emptying out closets and kitchen cabinets, and nearly tearing our house apart. I separated items by kind, size, price point, etc. and tagged them. I woke up at 6:30 this morning and hauled it all out to the stoop and arranged it in a presentable way so as to say, "Buy This Junk!". I did some big time social media promotion and Katie helped me put up signs at the street corners and local coffee shop. All the hard work paid off because I got rid of about 2/3 of my stuff! And all the bigger ticket items flew out the door!

Thanks so much to all my generous friends and neighbors for coming buy and giving me cash for my stuff. It's so good to know it's all in great hands!

Like I've said before, the purging feels amazing and I couldn't be happier to be one step closer to our move. But there are a few things that won't fit in my suitcase that I'm really going to miss...

Transition Brain

Our move from Philadelphia to Buenos Aires is happening in four short weeks and as our apartment empties out our furniture and our plans with friends become limited to only a few more days, everyone is asking all the questions:

"Are you excited?"
"Are you nervous?"
"What are you going to do with your stuff?"
"Do you have work lined up?"
"Can we come down and visit?"

The answers to these questions are exciting and nerve racking at the same time. Today I am so excited and just a healthy bit nervous about moving from our home.
Excited because what's not to be excited about?! We've both dreamed of living abroad, and I (more than Sandro, a confident and helpful gentleman) had big time doubts about where, when, and how that could ever happen. But it's happening! We'll be in a new place; a big, beautiful city where the people speak Spanish, there's a street market everyday, the apartments come furnished, and the wine is cheap! We'll explore, work, meet people, and learn something new everyday. We have each other and so far so good. Countdown 27 days!

In Transistion: We've sold our furniture so we're sleeping on the ground and living out of boxes. Miccio Cat doesn't seem to mind.

But nerves too. Because what's not to be nervous about?! No matter how much research, planning, and effort we put in to getting to Argentina, life is unpredictable and the future is a fickle place. We don't really know how it will go. We are leaving behind our apartment where we've built a home of books, food, art, the cat, and comfortable, happy memories. We are leaving our besties who we see everyday for a place where we know a couple of (great) people. Our routine is in upheaval! We'll get lonely, overwhelmed, and lost sometimes and won't be able to call a last minute happy hour at our favorite bar with our long time friends for normalcy and comfort.

But the good outweighs the bad and that's why this move is possible at all. Routine is a centering and balancing thing but can also cause complacency and wanderlust. Age makes routine more necessary so if adventure calls, it's best to pick up the phone and meet it while you can. My friends, thanks to technology, exist in my computer, which is coming with me! Our new apartment will feel like home as soon as Sandro and I are in it together. Feelings of displacement will fade, the same way they did when I moved from my hometown in California to Philly ten years ago. And we are able. We make the life we live, and so far we've worked it out pretty well. Natural disasters and financial collapses are out of our hands. This is our life.

All that too say, moving abroad is a great and difficult thing. If you are considering it, know that a mix of feelings and experiences is pretty normal. If you've done it, I'm probably missing the actual depth of this idea as I haven't even arrived yet and please feel free to comment with your own experiences! How did you feel leaving home at first? How do you feel away being from home now? Or has your new place become home?
xoxo Amber

Moving Abroad: 5 Steps to Purging Your Stuff

Part of any move is The Great Purge. Well, for me at least. I'm the opposite of a hoarder, more of an 'everything out' type of person. So when I moved in with Sandro a year and a half ago, I came with my clothes, childhood photo albums, and some animal art to give the place that feminine touch. He had all the major necessities (furniture, appliances, etc) so what was mine at my old apartment was sold or donated. Over time I've accumulated more books, more knick knacks, and enough kitchen gadgets to serve a restaurant. Now that we're moving to Buenos Aires, another more thorough purge is in order.

First, there's the traveling. We don't have the wherewithal to move anything extra, either on the plane (imagine me dragging one of those carts through the airport bar while waiting for the flight), or through the mail (Argentina is notorious for handling the shipping of cargo pretty poorly). And if we did spend the money and effort to send things like our library or our favorite bedspread to Argentina, the chance that it would get lost or cost an arm and a leg to pick up is just not worth it.

Secondly, there's the fact that most rental apartments in Buenos Aires come furnished (at least those that are available to shorter term foreigners like ourselves). So no need to bring our own pots and pans or linens or seating arrangements. And we won't have to spend money on that stuff once we get there. It's the perk that comes with paying higher rent than the locals. And for convenience sake, I'd say it's a fine deal.

So how do you just 'get rid of everything'? It's a lot of work and organization, but it's do-able and rewarding.

1. Swap - Hold a clothing/book/housewares swap with some friends. Invite everyone over to bring the things they don't want and to take things they could actually use from everyone else. My girls and I did a clothing swap last week. I brought two huge garbage bags of clothes that were cute and wearable, but that just didn't make the cut for Argentina. I left with one new dress and one new pair of shoes, both of which will sensibly fit into my suitcase and my Buenos Aires lifestyle. We ate snacks and drank wine and made an afternoon of it and it was really great to see my clothes go home with my friends who will actually wear and love them. Remember: There will probably be loads of leftovers, so everyone chip in to help clean up and re-bag everything. Someone volunteer to drive it all to the nearest thrift shop at the end of the day.

2. Thrift - Anything your friends don't want can go straight to your local thrift store. Most thrift stores donate to charity and will give you a receipt so that you can write off your donation on your taxes the following year. Thrift stores will take new or used clothes, housewares, electronics, books/movies/records, and pretty much anything else that isn't in terrible shape.

3. Sell - Selling new or lightly used items is fairly easy online or at a local resell store. We've used CraigsList.org to sell all of our furniture so far. We list the items at about 5% higher than we expect to get for it, and sure enough, someone comes and makes an offer at just the right price. It takes some time to list the item, research a fair asking price, and respond to emails from potential buyers. You'll also have to deal with strangers coming to your house to inspect, pay for, and take away your stuff. Be smart and be safe and you will be fine. And then you've got cash.
Buffalo Exchange is a boutique resell store (Read: glorified thrift) that offers cash or credit for new or barely used name brand clothes, shoes, and accessories. We have one in Philadelphia that, although it can be picky, has bought back a handful of my nicer clothes and shoes. I've taken in two bags of items and left with one full of the rejects and have made anywhere from $3-10 per piece. Once I took the cash (30% of what they will resell the item for) and bought myself lunch. Another time I took the store credit (50%) and left with a new coat. Check for vintage, consignment, and resell shops in your area to get a little extra cash for those 'better than thrift' pieces.

4. Give - Maybe your friends love your stuff and don't want to pick through it at a swap, or the resell store rejected it but it's still really cute and you can't bear to see it on the shelves at a thrift store. Maybe a buddy is recently single and is looking to furnish his empty apartment. Giving your things to people who you like and who need them is the best way to know your stuff will be appreciated and taken care of. All of my friends are getting pieces of me to hold on to, whether they want it or not!

5. Store - It's ok to keep stuff. If you are not planning on being gone too long or you're particularly attached to what you've got, pack it up. A family or friend's basement can be the safest, cheapest storage option. However, Uhaul and other national and local self-storage facilities offer safe, dry, temperature controlled spaces from $55-$120/month. You'll have to either pay upfront for a length of time or arrange a monthly payment by credit card from abroad. That's literally the price you pay for being a hoarder...oh! I mean uh...a sentimental stuff keeper.

So it's two suit cases apiece for Sandro and I, one checked and one carry on each. Clothes, Kindle, a couple photos and mementos, and that's it. But what about those childhood photo albums and that letter from your best friend from high school? Believe it or not, I do have a sentimental bone in my body (but just one), and I am lucky enough to be able to store a few things at Sandro's dad's house. BUT. I've narrowed it down to a couple of boxes. Two cardboard boxes will contain my life's physical memories and everything else is going to have to live in my mind (or on the internet).