Our British girl, Stephanie, invited us out to a milonga in San Telmo on Sunday. These old tango halls offer a more authentic experience than the big shows put on for hundreds of dollars for tourists. The Buenos Ayres Club at Peru 571 (between Mexico and Venezuela) is a simple, dim, old timey theater with a stage, a dance floor, and tables and chairs along the perimeter. There is a $30 ARS (~$6 USD) cover charge and a bar in the back that offers bottled beer, fernet y cola, and generous glasses of wine for $25-$35 ARS a piece.
At Buenos Ayres Club, you're welcome to take lessons, dance, or just watch. We showed up at 11pm just in time for the live music and open dance floor. We sat and watched a three piece band with male and female vocalists perform native tango songs. The dancers ranged from older local couples in love to younger students of the dance. It was an absolutely pleasant, classic argentine, and inexpensive evening!
18 November 2012
13 November 2012
A Typical Day Off in Buenos Aires
Sandro and I thought we'd wander and check out a few different spots throughout the city today. After walking through Chacarita last week for all it's amazing street art, we went back to see Parque Los Andes, the weekend feria, and the famous cemetery there.
On the way we walked through Mercado de Las Pulgas, the antique furniture flea market. The warehouse has about a thousand beautiful, vintage furniture pieces, plus knickknacks, clothes, and art from the 1940s-80s. I dream of an apartment furnished by Las Pulgas!
We moved on to Chacarita and walked the edge of the park, browsing through the clothes, incense, tools, and jewelry of the Feria de Parque Los Andes. I purchased a cup of mate and was so satisfied for only $4 ARS. Around the corner was the cemetery. It was just as huge and beautiful as the more popular cemetery in Recoleta, but without tourists or an entrance fee! No Evita here, but we did run into Carlos Gardel, Argentina's most beloved tango singer!
Don't tell anyone, but we ended our outing with a stop at Walmart. We thought maybe we'd find decent prices on household items or familiar fits in t-shirts and other basics. We did find these things, but it definitely wasn't worth it. Cheap products at dumb prices and inefficient customer service at a far-out location are not reasons to make the trek. Stick to your neighborhood shops and you'll be better off!
On the way we walked through Mercado de Las Pulgas, the antique furniture flea market. The warehouse has about a thousand beautiful, vintage furniture pieces, plus knickknacks, clothes, and art from the 1940s-80s. I dream of an apartment furnished by Las Pulgas!
We moved on to Chacarita and walked the edge of the park, browsing through the clothes, incense, tools, and jewelry of the Feria de Parque Los Andes. I purchased a cup of mate and was so satisfied for only $4 ARS. Around the corner was the cemetery. It was just as huge and beautiful as the more popular cemetery in Recoleta, but without tourists or an entrance fee! No Evita here, but we did run into Carlos Gardel, Argentina's most beloved tango singer!
Don't tell anyone, but we ended our outing with a stop at Walmart. We thought maybe we'd find decent prices on household items or familiar fits in t-shirts and other basics. We did find these things, but it definitely wasn't worth it. Cheap products at dumb prices and inefficient customer service at a far-out location are not reasons to make the trek. Stick to your neighborhood shops and you'll be better off!
10 November 2012
Cacerolazo - Protest in Buenos Aires
On Thursday night, November 8th (#8N), hundreds of thousands of Argentines and Argentine supporters around the world took to the streets in protest of the government of President Cristina Kirchner de Fernandez. This protest wasn't the first of it's kind, but the largest. We met the majority down at Obelisco in the center of Buenos Aires to check it out and lend our support.
A tiny portion of the protest in Buenos Aires.
These demonstrations, called 'cacerolazos', have become more common in the past couple of years. People hang out their balconies, flood central streets, and meet at significant intersections, banging pots and pans with wooden spoons and shaking water bottles filled with coins to call attention to governmental injustices. The President ratings have plummeted since her second election in 2011 while inflation rates have soared, corruption and dishonesty run rampant, the economy and international trade have been suppressed, and the media has been consistently censored.
Our perception of the cacerolazo was that these protests are peaceful. The protesters come from all backgrounds; mothers with babies, old couples, families, teenagers, locals, and foreigners. The media is present, but it's not about them. The people are organized (these protests are organized through Facebook and Twitter and businesses shut down to accommodate them); they are prepared (there is a cohesive message expressed through signs, banners, slogans projected on buildings and monuments, balloons, air horns, songs, and of course, pots and pans); and they love their country (the Argentine flag represents the strength of the people, not those in power). The problem is the people don't have a strong enough opposition leader, someone to actually run against Cristina in the 2015 election. For now they have their numbers and their voices.
A tiny portion of the protest in Buenos Aires.
These demonstrations, called 'cacerolazos', have become more common in the past couple of years. People hang out their balconies, flood central streets, and meet at significant intersections, banging pots and pans with wooden spoons and shaking water bottles filled with coins to call attention to governmental injustices. The President ratings have plummeted since her second election in 2011 while inflation rates have soared, corruption and dishonesty run rampant, the economy and international trade have been suppressed, and the media has been consistently censored.
Our perception of the cacerolazo was that these protests are peaceful. The protesters come from all backgrounds; mothers with babies, old couples, families, teenagers, locals, and foreigners. The media is present, but it's not about them. The people are organized (these protests are organized through Facebook and Twitter and businesses shut down to accommodate them); they are prepared (there is a cohesive message expressed through signs, banners, slogans projected on buildings and monuments, balloons, air horns, songs, and of course, pots and pans); and they love their country (the Argentine flag represents the strength of the people, not those in power). The problem is the people don't have a strong enough opposition leader, someone to actually run against Cristina in the 2015 election. For now they have their numbers and their voices.
08 November 2012
Iguazú Falls, Argentina
Sandro and I went to Iguazú Falls for a few days this week. The National Park borders Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay. The bulk of it is located in the province of Misiones in Argentina, about a two hour flight from Buenos Aires. We got a sweet flight/hotel/tour package online and ended up staying in the Esturión Hotel within Puerto Iguazú city. It was insanely luxurious and just a short drive from the falls.
A word about booking a tour: DON'T!
Our tour guide arrived at our hotel at 7:30am, an hour early, and then left without us! Even though we had pre-booked and paid for the tour, we decided to hop in a cab and forget meeting up with the group. And we are glad we did. Rather than get caught up with one hundred teenagers or oldies, pointing and eating and generally lagging, we were able to see everything on our own time. The tours generally last 9 hours, but you can see everything there is to see at Iguazú in about four or five.
As with the tour, many people will try to sell you many unnecessary things. You do not need a rain coat. You will get misty if you get up closest to the falls, but you'll want to in the heat, and you'll dry in two minutes.
You do not need to pay $120 ARS for a taxi to and from the park. The Rio Uruguay bus makes pick ups throughout the city every morning and return trips throughout the day straight to your accommodations. Bus tickets are $25 ARS per person per trip.
Also, get there early! The park opens at 8am and the sun and heat are generally pleasant this time of year, until about 12 noon when it starts to get brutal. We stayed from 8am to 12:30pm and it was perfect.
Some things you will need:
o $130 ARS entrance fee per person if you are from outside South America. If you are from this continent, you'll get a significant break.
o Hiking/running shoes. The paths are generally level and well maintained, but you'll be on your feet for a few hours.
o Sunscreen, a hat or sunglasses, bug spray. The sun is close and hardcore. The bugs are not awful, but you'll want to keep them at bay.
o Lunch. There are kioskos throughout the park that offer expensive, crappy snacks. I suggest packing something decent to get you through the morning. Also, there are water fountains (cold and hot for mate!) so bring a water bottle.
But most importantly, be prepared for a lovely experience! The falls really are unlike anything else (sorry, Niagara!). The park is rainforest-like and we saw a toucan, coatis, iguanas, and about one billion butterflies! And rainbows! If it sounds like a dreamy paradise, that's because it is.
SPOILER ALERT!
More photos here.
07 November 2012
Buenos Aires Street Art
Sandro, our girl Petra, and I meant to do the Buenos Aires Street Art Tour, but sometimes in this city, things don't happen when they say they do! So lucky for us, we self-guided the tour and wound up having a really chilled out adventure!
We started at Av. Federico Lacroze and Cramer, right by the Colegiales train station. We used this excellent online street art map as a guide. We spent all afternoon roaming through this quiet and lovely neighborhood getting up close with some of these famous pieces. Here are some of my favorites:
For a massive dose of top notch street painting without the long walk, get yourself to El Mercado de Las Pulgas at Dorrego y Av. Alvarez Thomas. This enormous warehouse is an antique furniture flea market and it's outside walls are covered in murals!
We started at Av. Federico Lacroze and Cramer, right by the Colegiales train station. We used this excellent online street art map as a guide. We spent all afternoon roaming through this quiet and lovely neighborhood getting up close with some of these famous pieces. Here are some of my favorites:
For a massive dose of top notch street painting without the long walk, get yourself to El Mercado de Las Pulgas at Dorrego y Av. Alvarez Thomas. This enormous warehouse is an antique furniture flea market and it's outside walls are covered in murals!
31 October 2012
Make Empanadas at Home!
Empanadas are ubiquitous in Buenos Aires. They are breakfast, lunch, merienda, dinner, and any meal or snack in between. They are perfectly hand-held, bite-sized, pockets of deliciousness that are cheap and easy, just the way I like it. They are baked or fried, doughy and crispy, and stuffed with meats, cheeses, and veggies, and Sandro and I indulge a couple times a week. At $4-5 pesos (~$1 USD) a pop, you can't really beat this perfect little food. So with a few simple ingredients and some patience, I made them at home. Here's how it went:
I got the cheap empanada wrappers from the grocery store, a handful of fresh mushrooms, some sharp cheese, and black beans. This is not a traditional empanada stuffing, but I thought I'd be creative! Typically empanadas will come stuffed with carne (beef), jamón y queso (ham and cheese), pollo (chicken), cebolla y queso (onion and cheese), atún (tuna), caprese (cheese, tomato, and oregano), or a few other combinations.
I started by sauteeing the mushrooms in olive oil with garlic, salt, and black pepper so that they were just browned. I lined my ingredients up into a conveyor line that would have made Henry Ford proud.
I took each empanada wrapper and topped it with a pinch of cheese and mushrooms. I decided to leave the beans out as they were too big and seemed excessive. I expected the wrappers to be difficult to work with but they were actually super easy! I used a take-out menu that showed drawings of the different styles as a guide to wrapping them up. Traditionally, each filling is wrapped in a specific style, so as to tell them apart when ready to eat. I only used one kind of filling, but experimented with the various styles for fun.
I would have preferred to bake the empanadas, but as is the norm here, our oven is old timey and I am too nervous to light it. So they went into a pan of vegetable oil over medium heat. I flipped them after a couple minutes, or until they were nice and crispy brown. When both sides looked good, I put the empanadas on a plate with a paper towel to soak up some of the excess oil and let them cool for a minute.
And so Sandro and I enjoyed our own delicious hand made empanadas right here at home. I made six for about $10 ARS ($2.10 USD). About the price for two if we would have bought them out!
I got the cheap empanada wrappers from the grocery store, a handful of fresh mushrooms, some sharp cheese, and black beans. This is not a traditional empanada stuffing, but I thought I'd be creative! Typically empanadas will come stuffed with carne (beef), jamón y queso (ham and cheese), pollo (chicken), cebolla y queso (onion and cheese), atún (tuna), caprese (cheese, tomato, and oregano), or a few other combinations.
I started by sauteeing the mushrooms in olive oil with garlic, salt, and black pepper so that they were just browned. I lined my ingredients up into a conveyor line that would have made Henry Ford proud.
I took each empanada wrapper and topped it with a pinch of cheese and mushrooms. I decided to leave the beans out as they were too big and seemed excessive. I expected the wrappers to be difficult to work with but they were actually super easy! I used a take-out menu that showed drawings of the different styles as a guide to wrapping them up. Traditionally, each filling is wrapped in a specific style, so as to tell them apart when ready to eat. I only used one kind of filling, but experimented with the various styles for fun.
I would have preferred to bake the empanadas, but as is the norm here, our oven is old timey and I am too nervous to light it. So they went into a pan of vegetable oil over medium heat. I flipped them after a couple minutes, or until they were nice and crispy brown. When both sides looked good, I put the empanadas on a plate with a paper towel to soak up some of the excess oil and let them cool for a minute.
And so Sandro and I enjoyed our own delicious hand made empanadas right here at home. I made six for about $10 ARS ($2.10 USD). About the price for two if we would have bought them out!
30 October 2012
Want a Massage in Buenos Aires?
Look no further.
Sandro and I spent a fair amount of time working last week, sitting in chairs in front of computers at The Office and by Friday had pretty achy backs. We couldn't decide whether we should splurge on something as luxurious as a massage but knew we had to deal with this situation before it got worse. Our co-worker, Toby, heard good things about Jen Klueppel at BA Life Centre, and that was as good a recommendation as any. We emailed her and had appointments scheduled for the very next Monday.
BA Life Centre is an apartment-turned-yoga-and-massage-studio at French 2647, Suite 5E in Barrio Norte. It's pretty and calming and has all of the equipment and products you want out of a holistic wellness center.
But let me tell you exactly why you want a massage from Jen:
1. First of all, she is STRONG. Sandro's appointment was first, and he came out of his massage feeling like a wet noodle. After she spent an hour working on his over-run calves and sore back, she spent another hour with me, sparing me nothing. Jen got into all the knots and muscles that have been bothering me and found a few I didn't even know were there. She used some typical Swedish massage moves but with impressive strength and endurance. Between the steam-roller-forearm-up-the-back and the 100-pounds-of-elbow-pressure-in-the-butt, I have been tenderized like a a fine flank.
2. Jen's got buena onda. Her massage room is small and cozy, with natural light muted by colorful, flowing curtains. The window looks out on a courtyard with trees and a pool, so no colectivos and rowdy city noises to ruin the mood. The massage table is comfortable, with that killer donut pillow I love and super crisp and clean white sheets. And the music was quite a pleasant surprise. Jen was jamming mellow tunes from Leonard Cohen, Feist, and Oasis, not that tripped out, overly meditative music that has accompanied every massage I've ever had. I felt relaxed, I felt care-free, and I felt something familiar.
3. Also, Jen provides an excellent massage at an excellent price. An hour long massage will cost you $185 ARS/$40 USD, and she accepts either currency (though, who wouldn't prefer dollars?). This is half what I'd expect to pay in the States and is nothing compared to how great I feel today!
If you want to get in touch with Jen, email her at info@balifecentre.com.
Sandro and I spent a fair amount of time working last week, sitting in chairs in front of computers at The Office and by Friday had pretty achy backs. We couldn't decide whether we should splurge on something as luxurious as a massage but knew we had to deal with this situation before it got worse. Our co-worker, Toby, heard good things about Jen Klueppel at BA Life Centre, and that was as good a recommendation as any. We emailed her and had appointments scheduled for the very next Monday.
BA Life Centre is an apartment-turned-yoga-and-massage-studio at French 2647, Suite 5E in Barrio Norte. It's pretty and calming and has all of the equipment and products you want out of a holistic wellness center.
But let me tell you exactly why you want a massage from Jen:
1. First of all, she is STRONG. Sandro's appointment was first, and he came out of his massage feeling like a wet noodle. After she spent an hour working on his over-run calves and sore back, she spent another hour with me, sparing me nothing. Jen got into all the knots and muscles that have been bothering me and found a few I didn't even know were there. She used some typical Swedish massage moves but with impressive strength and endurance. Between the steam-roller-forearm-up-the-back and the 100-pounds-of-elbow-pressure-in-the-butt, I have been tenderized like a a fine flank.
2. Jen's got buena onda. Her massage room is small and cozy, with natural light muted by colorful, flowing curtains. The window looks out on a courtyard with trees and a pool, so no colectivos and rowdy city noises to ruin the mood. The massage table is comfortable, with that killer donut pillow I love and super crisp and clean white sheets. And the music was quite a pleasant surprise. Jen was jamming mellow tunes from Leonard Cohen, Feist, and Oasis, not that tripped out, overly meditative music that has accompanied every massage I've ever had. I felt relaxed, I felt care-free, and I felt something familiar.
3. Also, Jen provides an excellent massage at an excellent price. An hour long massage will cost you $185 ARS/$40 USD, and she accepts either currency (though, who wouldn't prefer dollars?). This is half what I'd expect to pay in the States and is nothing compared to how great I feel today!
If you want to get in touch with Jen, email her at info@balifecentre.com.
29 October 2012
Blue Market Money Exchange in Buenos Aires
"Cambio!"
Hombre en La Calle here. Let’s talk about bringing money from your native country and exchanging it in Buenos Aires.
Say you have a fistful of Euros that you wanted to exchange when you landed at Ezeiza but didn’t get around to it. You could probably get around by paying for your restaurant bills and mom-and-pop store expenses with your native money, but this will immediately identify you as a tourist, and if you don’t do your exchange rate homework, this is a wonderful way for someone to cheat you out of the right amount of change. So what next?
You could go the safe, legal route and exchange your money at a bank. But due to inflation, the country’s official exchange rate differs from the informal exchange rate. So what if you want to get the best deal on exchanging your native money for pesos?
First, if you have US dollars, check these exchange rates out. Listed there are the official (Banco Central de la República Argentina [BCRA]), actual (private banks), and informal exchange rates for the ARS (Argentinian Peso) and US Dollar. That informal rate will be the one you’re looking for as you begin your quest.
Second, if you interact with people who routinely work with foreign currencies (such as people in hospitality and tourism--like if you’re staying at a hotel), ask them if they’ll exchange with you.
Third, you could walk down to Calle Florida and change your money on the blue market.
THE BLUE MARKET
Called so because it’s based around blue-chip swaps, the blue market is Argentina’s underground money exchange. In Buenos Aires, the blue market’s representatives can be heard at the lower street numbers (< 500) on Calle Florida, the middle of the downtown shopping district. There, you’ll walk down the busy, store-lined pedestrian street as locals and tourists alike browse around for upscale clothing, perfumes, and gadgets. You’ll want to plant yourself among the throngs of people and listen.
And inevitably, you’ll hear the soft melody of the arbolitos--street-level representatives--who call out “cambio, cambio” without trying to attract attention. Arbolitos come in various guises. Some look a little destitute, but wear jewelry, and they might sport sunglasses. If you think that kind of person looks shady, I don’t blame you. Others might wear business-casual attire or even suits. Talk to whom you feel comfortable with.
If you casually approach one, they’ll speak to you in Spanish, and probably broken English. They will ask you how much you want to exchange and what denomination. You can ask them what the tipo de cambio (exchange rate) is and they’ll probably give you a number that is pretty close to (and maybe a little less than) the unofficial exchange rate that you already looked up.
If the arbolito is happy with you and your intended amount and denomination, he or she will ask you to follow them to a cueva (cave--colloquially like hideout), which will be somewhere close but off the street. Don’t trust anyone who wants to exchange money right then and there. That’s just dumb. Once in the cueva, you’ll be able to exchange your money.
I did cambio azul twice in mid-October, 2012.
The first time, I walked down Calle Florida and listened for the soft “cambio, cambio.” I talked to a woman at the 200 block of Calle Florida who looked about 19 years old. She was wearing worn out clothing and looked like a local version of a meth head. When I asked, she gave me a quote of 6.00 pesos per US dollar. I said thanks and moved on. A second woman, about 20 meters south, on the 100 block, quoted me 6.10. And she was wearing a business suit kind of outfit, like a flight attendant’s uniform, and talked to me more directly. I said I had $100 USD to exchange to pesos. She led me into a small galeria and beckoned me to go to a guy who had a “legit” casa de cambio. He met me in the galeria hallway and then walked behind his money desk window. He counted out my money and showed me the arithmetic on a calculator and then counted out the pesos. I said thanks and exited the galeria.
The second time, I walked down Calle Florida with $150 USD. I heard the “cambio, cambio” from these two meaty looking guys in suits who were standing outside of an electronics store. I got a safe vibe from them so I stopped to talk to one of them. He showed me the quote on his cell phone ($6.10 pesos per 1 USD again) and I said yeah, and he asked me to follow him. This time, I followed him around the block on the street into an apartment/office building. I felt like this was kind of shady but I went anyway. He took me up to the tenth floor in an old rickety elevator. We stood in the hallway outside of a door for about 5 minutes. After a few minutes, the arbolito left. I stood there alone. Two people came out at different intervals. There was an electronic lock on the door. Then finally someone opened it and a guy inside beckoned me in. It was an office with a retrofitted money window (i.e. thick glass and bars). I took out my money and the guy behind the window did the same thing as last time--he counted it, tapped the math on the calculator and showed me, and counted out the pesos. I took them and left the building.
Ultimately, I felt pretty safe doing this, but it is technically illegal. I’m not sure what the consequences of getting caught are, and I don’t want to. So my main advice on getting a great deal for currency exchange is to start by asking other expats that you trust. Chances are, they might even know of a person who comes to your place to change money. That’s convenience.
The Blue Market is not exactly legal, but it’s kind of too big to fail prosecute. If the government were to crack down on this, it would disturb the country’s financial and political economy, and at its current precarious standing, that might be disastrous. So the blue market continues. Just the other day, I watched a short exposé on the exchange at Calle Florida. Check it out.
Hombre en La Calle out, yo.
Guest post by Sandro.
Hombre en La Calle here. Let’s talk about bringing money from your native country and exchanging it in Buenos Aires.
Say you have a fistful of Euros that you wanted to exchange when you landed at Ezeiza but didn’t get around to it. You could probably get around by paying for your restaurant bills and mom-and-pop store expenses with your native money, but this will immediately identify you as a tourist, and if you don’t do your exchange rate homework, this is a wonderful way for someone to cheat you out of the right amount of change. So what next?
You could go the safe, legal route and exchange your money at a bank. But due to inflation, the country’s official exchange rate differs from the informal exchange rate. So what if you want to get the best deal on exchanging your native money for pesos?
First, if you have US dollars, check these exchange rates out. Listed there are the official (Banco Central de la República Argentina [BCRA]), actual (private banks), and informal exchange rates for the ARS (Argentinian Peso) and US Dollar. That informal rate will be the one you’re looking for as you begin your quest.
Second, if you interact with people who routinely work with foreign currencies (such as people in hospitality and tourism--like if you’re staying at a hotel), ask them if they’ll exchange with you.
Third, you could walk down to Calle Florida and change your money on the blue market.
THE BLUE MARKET
Called so because it’s based around blue-chip swaps, the blue market is Argentina’s underground money exchange. In Buenos Aires, the blue market’s representatives can be heard at the lower street numbers (< 500) on Calle Florida, the middle of the downtown shopping district. There, you’ll walk down the busy, store-lined pedestrian street as locals and tourists alike browse around for upscale clothing, perfumes, and gadgets. You’ll want to plant yourself among the throngs of people and listen.
And inevitably, you’ll hear the soft melody of the arbolitos--street-level representatives--who call out “cambio, cambio” without trying to attract attention. Arbolitos come in various guises. Some look a little destitute, but wear jewelry, and they might sport sunglasses. If you think that kind of person looks shady, I don’t blame you. Others might wear business-casual attire or even suits. Talk to whom you feel comfortable with.
If you casually approach one, they’ll speak to you in Spanish, and probably broken English. They will ask you how much you want to exchange and what denomination. You can ask them what the tipo de cambio (exchange rate) is and they’ll probably give you a number that is pretty close to (and maybe a little less than) the unofficial exchange rate that you already looked up.
If the arbolito is happy with you and your intended amount and denomination, he or she will ask you to follow them to a cueva (cave--colloquially like hideout), which will be somewhere close but off the street. Don’t trust anyone who wants to exchange money right then and there. That’s just dumb. Once in the cueva, you’ll be able to exchange your money.
I did cambio azul twice in mid-October, 2012.
The first time, I walked down Calle Florida and listened for the soft “cambio, cambio.” I talked to a woman at the 200 block of Calle Florida who looked about 19 years old. She was wearing worn out clothing and looked like a local version of a meth head. When I asked, she gave me a quote of 6.00 pesos per US dollar. I said thanks and moved on. A second woman, about 20 meters south, on the 100 block, quoted me 6.10. And she was wearing a business suit kind of outfit, like a flight attendant’s uniform, and talked to me more directly. I said I had $100 USD to exchange to pesos. She led me into a small galeria and beckoned me to go to a guy who had a “legit” casa de cambio. He met me in the galeria hallway and then walked behind his money desk window. He counted out my money and showed me the arithmetic on a calculator and then counted out the pesos. I said thanks and exited the galeria.
The second time, I walked down Calle Florida with $150 USD. I heard the “cambio, cambio” from these two meaty looking guys in suits who were standing outside of an electronics store. I got a safe vibe from them so I stopped to talk to one of them. He showed me the quote on his cell phone ($6.10 pesos per 1 USD again) and I said yeah, and he asked me to follow him. This time, I followed him around the block on the street into an apartment/office building. I felt like this was kind of shady but I went anyway. He took me up to the tenth floor in an old rickety elevator. We stood in the hallway outside of a door for about 5 minutes. After a few minutes, the arbolito left. I stood there alone. Two people came out at different intervals. There was an electronic lock on the door. Then finally someone opened it and a guy inside beckoned me in. It was an office with a retrofitted money window (i.e. thick glass and bars). I took out my money and the guy behind the window did the same thing as last time--he counted it, tapped the math on the calculator and showed me, and counted out the pesos. I took them and left the building.
Ultimately, I felt pretty safe doing this, but it is technically illegal. I’m not sure what the consequences of getting caught are, and I don’t want to. So my main advice on getting a great deal for currency exchange is to start by asking other expats that you trust. Chances are, they might even know of a person who comes to your place to change money. That’s convenience.
The Blue Market is not exactly legal, but it’s kind of too big to fail prosecute. If the government were to crack down on this, it would disturb the country’s financial and political economy, and at its current precarious standing, that might be disastrous. So the blue market continues. Just the other day, I watched a short exposé on the exchange at Calle Florida. Check it out.
Hombre en La Calle out, yo.
Guest post by Sandro.
27 October 2012
The Farmer's Market at Plaza Armenia
Last Saturday afternoon, Sandro and I happened upon the farmer's market on the north side of Plaza Armenia (Nicaragua between Armenia and Malabia). The block begins and ends with two huge produce vendors and is filled with stands selling fresh and cured meats, cheeses, nuts and grains, and more. We headed back this week and got some awesome deals on a little bit of everything to get us through the week.
Here's the breakdown:
+ 1/4 kilo muzzarella
+ 1/4 kilo queso campo
+ 100 grams jamón crudo/proscuitto
+ 1 sopressata/more cured pig
= $54 ARS
+ 5 bananas
+ 2 tomates
+ 1 qt. arándanos/blueberries
+ 2 things of espinaca/spinach
= $34 ARS
+ 1/2 kilo avenda/oats
+ 100 grams almendras/almonds
= $17 ARS
For a grand total of $105 ARS/$22 USD. The great thing about all of this is that A) It's so much less expensive than many of the verdularias or carnicerias in our 'hood, and B) It's so much less expensive than what we would pay back in the States for these same items, particularly the meats and cheeses.
So get there between 11am and 2pm. Before or after and you may miss some of the vendors. The produce stands get long lines, so grab a number and wait to be called. You shouldn't have to wait more than 15 minutes and there are always a ton of cute dogs in the park to look at.
Besos,
Amber
Here's the breakdown:
+ 1/4 kilo muzzarella
+ 1/4 kilo queso campo
+ 100 grams jamón crudo/proscuitto
+ 1 sopressata/more cured pig
= $54 ARS
+ 5 bananas
+ 2 tomates
+ 1 qt. arándanos/blueberries
+ 2 things of espinaca/spinach
= $34 ARS
+ 1/2 kilo avenda/oats
+ 100 grams almendras/almonds
= $17 ARS
For a grand total of $105 ARS/$22 USD. The great thing about all of this is that A) It's so much less expensive than many of the verdularias or carnicerias in our 'hood, and B) It's so much less expensive than what we would pay back in the States for these same items, particularly the meats and cheeses.
So get there between 11am and 2pm. Before or after and you may miss some of the vendors. The produce stands get long lines, so grab a number and wait to be called. You shouldn't have to wait more than 15 minutes and there are always a ton of cute dogs in the park to look at.
Besos,
Amber
24 October 2012
5 Better than Average Eats in Buenos Aires
I couldn’t possibly review every tiny café, almacén, bar, tienda, etc. that I experience in my daily routine, living and working in Buenos Aires. Not because I go out constantly, but because just walking through the city, they are everywhere and they all start to look the same. In my short time here, I have, however, come across a few spectacular spots that are worth checking out.
1. Lo de Roberto
A friend said, “There’s this tiny place where this old guy sings…” and I was sold. Lo de Roberto, or El Boliche de Roberto, truly is a hidden gem. At the corner of Bulnes and Juan Domingo Perón, you could easily miss the unassuming store front if you weren’t looking for it. But look for it! Because the old timey bottles that adorn the walls are enough to make you feel cinematic. After a cheap fernet y cola and two hours past your bedtime, expect a duo of strapping young Argentines to take front and center, to crack mild mannered jokes between traditionally appreciated tango songs. No mic, just an acoustic guitar and a classic voice. It’s as romantic as it sounds in a dingy old place with 100 years of family history telling the stories. And if you’re lucky, the old guy will come out and sing.
Image via Jared Johnson
2. D’accordo
The next morning head over to D’accordo at Paraguay and Bonpland in Palermo Hollywood. It looks a lot like all the other cafes with chalkboard promociones and decent outside seating. But the great thing about it is that the high ceilings, the enormous windows, and the ample tables for two and four make it a quiet and lovely place to enjoy a café in the morning or afternoon. What’s better is a café con leche y dos AMAZING medialunas will only set you back $14 pesos, which is lower than most places, particularly in that area. And the medialunas really are that good. I’m talking huge, and perfectly airy with a light, crispy outside covered in that sweet, sticky whatever-it-is. A shot of jugo de naranja and one of agua con gas and I’m good.
Image via Lost Girls
3. El Nono Amigo
In the same ‘hood (and every ten steps of every block ever) you’ll find another one of Argentina’s prized possessions: empanadas. At El Nono Amigo, you may find the typical varieties like carne and jamón y queso. But you will also find some delicious and (gasp!) vegetarian delights at $6 pesos a pop. The Amigo uses herbed artichoke hearts and eggplant to stuff their little hot pockets and they are as delicious as they sound. Grab a couple fresh out of the oven for lunch or stock up on a dozen for $60 ARS.
Image via Laylita
4. Sugar
If you’ve had enough Argentine specialties and need a little expat flavor, Sugar bar at Armenia and Costa Rica will deliver. This dark, no frills spot offers 2 pintas de Quilmes for $35 pesos between 7pm and midnight every day of the week. For me, the real star of their menu is the chicken burrito. All I want in life is black beans, rice, guacamole, pico de gallo, and some grilled chicken in a big, fat tortilla. It’s hard to come by around here, but Sugar does it right at $45 pesos. It is huge so devour half and save the other half for tomorrow’s lunch. Stick around for fútbol or breaking US news on one of their giant flatscreens for more reminders of why you came here in the first place.
Image via Kekanto
5. Cossab
If legit beer is what you want and what you need, Cossab at José Mármol and Carlos Calvo in Boedo make their own. From blonde to red to brunette, Cossab crafts what have been called the city’s “finest brews.” They also offer drafts from local pub Antares as well as a large bottle selection from around the world. Slighty divey but honestly charming, Cossab also provides a decent menu including all the usuals; pizza, picada, y parilla. At $25-27 pesos a pint, try the Rubia and the Scotch for two totally different but totally perfect beers.
Image via Yours Truly
Got a place to add to my list? Let me know!
Besos,
Amber
1. Lo de Roberto
A friend said, “There’s this tiny place where this old guy sings…” and I was sold. Lo de Roberto, or El Boliche de Roberto, truly is a hidden gem. At the corner of Bulnes and Juan Domingo Perón, you could easily miss the unassuming store front if you weren’t looking for it. But look for it! Because the old timey bottles that adorn the walls are enough to make you feel cinematic. After a cheap fernet y cola and two hours past your bedtime, expect a duo of strapping young Argentines to take front and center, to crack mild mannered jokes between traditionally appreciated tango songs. No mic, just an acoustic guitar and a classic voice. It’s as romantic as it sounds in a dingy old place with 100 years of family history telling the stories. And if you’re lucky, the old guy will come out and sing.
Image via Jared Johnson
2. D’accordo
The next morning head over to D’accordo at Paraguay and Bonpland in Palermo Hollywood. It looks a lot like all the other cafes with chalkboard promociones and decent outside seating. But the great thing about it is that the high ceilings, the enormous windows, and the ample tables for two and four make it a quiet and lovely place to enjoy a café in the morning or afternoon. What’s better is a café con leche y dos AMAZING medialunas will only set you back $14 pesos, which is lower than most places, particularly in that area. And the medialunas really are that good. I’m talking huge, and perfectly airy with a light, crispy outside covered in that sweet, sticky whatever-it-is. A shot of jugo de naranja and one of agua con gas and I’m good.
Image via Lost Girls
3. El Nono Amigo
In the same ‘hood (and every ten steps of every block ever) you’ll find another one of Argentina’s prized possessions: empanadas. At El Nono Amigo, you may find the typical varieties like carne and jamón y queso. But you will also find some delicious and (gasp!) vegetarian delights at $6 pesos a pop. The Amigo uses herbed artichoke hearts and eggplant to stuff their little hot pockets and they are as delicious as they sound. Grab a couple fresh out of the oven for lunch or stock up on a dozen for $60 ARS.
Image via Laylita
4. Sugar
If you’ve had enough Argentine specialties and need a little expat flavor, Sugar bar at Armenia and Costa Rica will deliver. This dark, no frills spot offers 2 pintas de Quilmes for $35 pesos between 7pm and midnight every day of the week. For me, the real star of their menu is the chicken burrito. All I want in life is black beans, rice, guacamole, pico de gallo, and some grilled chicken in a big, fat tortilla. It’s hard to come by around here, but Sugar does it right at $45 pesos. It is huge so devour half and save the other half for tomorrow’s lunch. Stick around for fútbol or breaking US news on one of their giant flatscreens for more reminders of why you came here in the first place.
Image via Kekanto
5. Cossab
If legit beer is what you want and what you need, Cossab at José Mármol and Carlos Calvo in Boedo make their own. From blonde to red to brunette, Cossab crafts what have been called the city’s “finest brews.” They also offer drafts from local pub Antares as well as a large bottle selection from around the world. Slighty divey but honestly charming, Cossab also provides a decent menu including all the usuals; pizza, picada, y parilla. At $25-27 pesos a pint, try the Rubia and the Scotch for two totally different but totally perfect beers.
Image via Yours Truly
Got a place to add to my list? Let me know!
Besos,
Amber
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