31 October 2012

Make Empanadas at Home!

Empanadas are ubiquitous in Buenos Aires. They are breakfast, lunch, merienda, dinner, and any meal or snack in between. They are perfectly hand-held, bite-sized, pockets of deliciousness that are cheap and easy, just the way I like it. They are baked or fried, doughy and crispy, and stuffed with meats, cheeses, and veggies, and Sandro and I indulge a couple times a week. At $4-5 pesos (~$1 USD) a pop, you can't really beat this perfect little food. So with a few simple ingredients and some patience, I made them at home. Here's how it went:



I got the cheap empanada wrappers from the grocery store, a handful of fresh mushrooms, some sharp cheese, and black beans. This is not a traditional empanada stuffing, but I thought I'd be creative! Typically empanadas will come stuffed with carne (beef), jamón y queso (ham and cheese), pollo (chicken), cebolla y queso (onion and cheese), atún (tuna), caprese (cheese, tomato, and oregano), or a few other combinations.
I started by sauteeing the mushrooms in olive oil with garlic, salt, and black pepper so that they were just browned. I lined my ingredients up into a conveyor line that would have made Henry Ford proud.



I took each empanada wrapper and topped it with a pinch of cheese and mushrooms. I decided to leave the beans out as they were too big and seemed excessive. I expected the wrappers to be difficult to work with but they were actually super easy! I used a take-out menu that showed drawings of the different styles as a guide to wrapping them up. Traditionally, each filling is wrapped in a specific style, so as to tell them apart when ready to eat. I only used one kind of filling, but experimented with the various styles for fun.



I would have preferred to bake the empanadas, but as is the norm here, our oven is old timey and I am too nervous to light it. So they went into a pan of vegetable oil over medium heat. I flipped them after a couple minutes, or until they were nice and crispy brown. When both sides looked good, I put the empanadas on a plate with a paper towel to soak up some of the excess oil and let them cool for a minute.





And so Sandro and I enjoyed our own delicious hand made empanadas right here at home. I made six for about $10 ARS ($2.10 USD). About the price for two if we would have bought them out!

30 October 2012

Want a Massage in Buenos Aires?

Look no further.

Sandro and I spent a fair amount of time working last week, sitting in chairs in front of computers at The Office and by Friday had pretty achy backs. We couldn't decide whether we should splurge on something as luxurious as a massage but knew we had to deal with this situation before it got worse. Our co-worker, Toby, heard good things about Jen Klueppel at BA Life Centre, and that was as good a recommendation as any. We emailed her and had appointments scheduled for the very next Monday.

BA Life Centre is an apartment-turned-yoga-and-massage-studio at French 2647, Suite 5E in Barrio Norte. It's pretty and calming and has all of the equipment and products you want out of a holistic wellness center.



But let me tell you exactly why you want a massage from Jen:

1. First of all, she is STRONG. Sandro's appointment was first, and he came out of his massage feeling like a wet noodle. After she spent an hour working on his over-run calves and sore back, she spent another hour with me, sparing me nothing. Jen got into all the knots and muscles that have been bothering me and found a few I didn't even know were there. She used some typical Swedish massage moves but with impressive strength and endurance. Between the steam-roller-forearm-up-the-back and the 100-pounds-of-elbow-pressure-in-the-butt, I have been tenderized like a a fine flank.

2. Jen's got buena onda. Her massage room is small and cozy, with natural light muted by colorful, flowing curtains. The window looks out on a courtyard with trees and a pool, so no colectivos and rowdy city noises to ruin the mood. The massage table is comfortable, with that killer donut pillow I love and super crisp and clean white sheets. And the music was quite a pleasant surprise. Jen was jamming mellow tunes from Leonard Cohen, Feist, and Oasis, not that tripped out, overly meditative music that has accompanied every massage I've ever had. I felt relaxed, I felt care-free, and I felt something familiar.

3. Also, Jen provides an excellent massage at an excellent price. An hour long massage will cost you $185 ARS/$40 USD, and she accepts either currency (though, who wouldn't prefer dollars?). This is half what I'd expect to pay in the States and is nothing compared to how great I feel today!

If you want to get in touch with Jen, email her at info@balifecentre.com.

29 October 2012

Blue Market Money Exchange in Buenos Aires

"Cambio!"

Hombre en La Calle here. Let’s talk about bringing money from your native country and exchanging it in Buenos Aires.

Say you have a fistful of Euros that you wanted to exchange when you landed at Ezeiza but didn’t get around to it. You could probably get around by paying for your restaurant bills and mom-and-pop store expenses with your native money, but this will immediately identify you as a tourist, and if you don’t do your exchange rate homework, this is a wonderful way for someone to cheat you out of the right amount of change. So what next?

You could go the safe, legal route and exchange your money at a bank. But due to inflation, the country’s official exchange rate differs from the informal exchange rate. So what if you want to get the best deal on exchanging your native money for pesos?

First, if you have US dollars, check these exchange rates out. Listed there are the official (Banco Central de la República Argentina [BCRA]), actual (private banks), and informal exchange rates for the ARS (Argentinian Peso) and US Dollar. That informal rate will be the one you’re looking for as you begin your quest.

Second, if you interact with people who routinely work with foreign currencies (such as people in hospitality and tourism--like if you’re staying at a hotel), ask them if they’ll exchange with you.

Third, you could walk down to Calle Florida and change your money on the blue market.



THE BLUE MARKET

Called so because it’s based around blue-chip swaps, the blue market is Argentina’s underground money exchange. In Buenos Aires, the blue market’s representatives can be heard at the lower street numbers (< 500) on Calle Florida, the middle of the downtown shopping district. There, you’ll walk down the busy, store-lined pedestrian street as locals and tourists alike browse around for upscale clothing, perfumes, and gadgets. You’ll want to plant yourself among the throngs of people and listen.

And inevitably, you’ll hear the soft melody of the arbolitos--street-level representatives--who call out “cambio, cambio” without trying to attract attention. Arbolitos come in various guises. Some look a little destitute, but wear jewelry, and they might sport sunglasses. If you think that kind of person looks shady, I don’t blame you. Others might wear business-casual attire or even suits. Talk to whom you feel comfortable with.

If you casually approach one, they’ll speak to you in Spanish, and probably broken English. They will ask you how much you want to exchange and what denomination. You can ask them what the tipo de cambio (exchange rate) is and they’ll probably give you a number that is pretty close to (and maybe a little less than) the unofficial exchange rate that you already looked up.

If the arbolito is happy with you and your intended amount and denomination, he or she will ask you to follow them to a cueva (cave--colloquially like hideout), which will be somewhere close but off the street. Don’t trust anyone who wants to exchange money right then and there. That’s just dumb. Once in the cueva, you’ll be able to exchange your money.

I did cambio azul twice in mid-October, 2012.

The first time, I walked down Calle Florida and listened for the soft “cambio, cambio.” I talked to a woman at the 200 block of Calle Florida who looked about 19 years old. She was wearing worn out clothing and looked like a local version of a meth head. When I asked, she gave me a quote of 6.00 pesos per US dollar. I said thanks and moved on. A second woman, about 20 meters south, on the 100 block, quoted me 6.10. And she was wearing a business suit kind of outfit, like a flight attendant’s uniform, and talked to me more directly. I said I had $100 USD to exchange to pesos. She led me into a small galeria and beckoned me to go to a guy who had a “legit” casa de cambio. He met me in the galeria hallway and then walked behind his money desk window. He counted out my money and showed me the arithmetic on a calculator and then counted out the pesos. I said thanks and exited the galeria.

The second time, I walked down Calle Florida with $150 USD. I heard the “cambio, cambio” from these two meaty looking guys in suits who were standing outside of an electronics store. I got a safe vibe from them so I stopped to talk to one of them. He showed me the quote on his cell phone ($6.10 pesos per 1 USD again) and I said yeah, and he asked me to follow him. This time, I followed him around the block on the street into an apartment/office building. I felt like this was kind of shady but I went anyway. He took me up to the tenth floor in an old rickety elevator. We stood in the hallway outside of a door for about 5 minutes. After a few minutes, the arbolito left. I stood there alone. Two people came out at different intervals. There was an electronic lock on the door. Then finally someone opened it and a guy inside beckoned me in. It was an office with a retrofitted money window (i.e. thick glass and bars). I took out my money and the guy behind the window did the same thing as last time--he counted it, tapped the math on the calculator and showed me, and counted out the pesos. I took them and left the building.

Ultimately, I felt pretty safe doing this, but it is technically illegal. I’m not sure what the consequences of getting caught are, and I don’t want to. So my main advice on getting a great deal for currency exchange is to start by asking other expats that you trust. Chances are, they might even know of a person who comes to your place to change money. That’s convenience.

The Blue Market is not exactly legal, but it’s kind of too big to fail prosecute. If the government were to crack down on this, it would disturb the country’s financial and political economy, and at its current precarious standing, that might be disastrous. So the blue market continues. Just the other day, I watched a short exposé on the exchange at Calle Florida. Check it out.

Hombre en La Calle out, yo.

Guest post by Sandro.

27 October 2012

The Farmer's Market at Plaza Armenia

Last Saturday afternoon, Sandro and I happened upon the farmer's market on the north side of Plaza Armenia (Nicaragua between Armenia and Malabia). The block begins and ends with two huge produce vendors and is filled with stands selling fresh and cured meats, cheeses, nuts and grains, and more. We headed back this week and got some awesome deals on a little bit of everything to get us through the week.



Here's the breakdown:

+ 1/4 kilo muzzarella
+ 1/4 kilo queso campo
+ 100 grams jamón crudo/proscuitto
+ 1 sopressata/more cured pig
= $54 ARS

+ 5 bananas
+ 2 tomates
+ 1 qt. arándanos/blueberries
+ 2 things of espinaca/spinach
= $34 ARS

+ 1/2 kilo avenda/oats
+ 100 grams almendras/almonds
= $17 ARS

For a grand total of $105 ARS/$22 USD. The great thing about all of this is that A) It's so much less expensive than many of the verdularias or carnicerias in our 'hood, and B) It's so much less expensive than what we would pay back in the States for these same items, particularly the meats and cheeses.

So get there between 11am and 2pm. Before or after and you may miss some of the vendors. The produce stands get long lines, so grab a number and wait to be called. You shouldn't have to wait more than 15 minutes and there are always a ton of cute dogs in the park to look at.
Besos,
Amber

24 October 2012

5 Better than Average Eats in Buenos Aires

I couldn’t possibly review every tiny café, almacén, bar, tienda, etc. that I experience in my daily routine, living and working in Buenos Aires. Not because I go out constantly, but because just walking through the city, they are everywhere and they all start to look the same. In my short time here, I have, however, come across a few spectacular spots that are worth checking out.



1. Lo de Roberto
A friend said, “There’s this tiny place where this old guy sings…” and I was sold. Lo de Roberto, or El Boliche de Roberto, truly is a hidden gem. At the corner of Bulnes and Juan Domingo Perón, you could easily miss the unassuming store front if you weren’t looking for it. But look for it! Because the old timey bottles that adorn the walls are enough to make you feel cinematic. After a cheap fernet y cola and two hours past your bedtime, expect a duo of strapping young Argentines to take front and center, to crack mild mannered jokes between traditionally appreciated tango songs. No mic, just an acoustic guitar and a classic voice. It’s as romantic as it sounds in a dingy old place with 100 years of family history telling the stories. And if you’re lucky, the old guy will come out and sing.
Image via Jared Johnson

2. D’accordo
The next morning head over to D’accordo at Paraguay and Bonpland in Palermo Hollywood. It looks a lot like all the other cafes with chalkboard promociones and decent outside seating. But the great thing about it is that the high ceilings, the enormous windows, and the ample tables for two and four make it a quiet and lovely place to enjoy a café in the morning or afternoon. What’s better is a café con leche y dos AMAZING medialunas will only set you back $14 pesos, which is lower than most places, particularly in that area. And the medialunas really are that good. I’m talking huge, and perfectly airy with a light, crispy outside covered in that sweet, sticky whatever-it-is. A shot of jugo de naranja and one of agua con gas and I’m good.
Image via Lost Girls

3. El Nono Amigo
In the same ‘hood (and every ten steps of every block ever) you’ll find another one of Argentina’s prized possessions: empanadas. At El Nono Amigo, you may find the typical varieties like carne and jamón y queso. But you will also find some delicious and (gasp!) vegetarian delights at $6 pesos a pop. The Amigo uses herbed artichoke hearts and eggplant to stuff their little hot pockets and they are as delicious as they sound. Grab a couple fresh out of the oven for lunch or stock up on a dozen for $60 ARS.
Image via Laylita

4. Sugar
If you’ve had enough Argentine specialties and need a little expat flavor, Sugar bar at Armenia and Costa Rica will deliver. This dark, no frills spot offers 2 pintas de Quilmes for $35 pesos between 7pm and midnight every day of the week. For me, the real star of their menu is the chicken burrito. All I want in life is black beans, rice, guacamole, pico de gallo, and some grilled chicken in a big, fat tortilla. It’s hard to come by around here, but Sugar does it right at $45 pesos. It is huge so devour half and save the other half for tomorrow’s lunch. Stick around for fútbol or breaking US news on one of their giant flatscreens for more reminders of why you came here in the first place.
Image via Kekanto

5. Cossab
If legit beer is what you want and what you need, Cossab at José Mármol and Carlos Calvo in Boedo make their own. From blonde to red to brunette, Cossab crafts what have been called the city’s “finest brews.” They also offer drafts from local pub Antares as well as a large bottle selection from around the world. Slighty divey but honestly charming, Cossab also provides a decent menu including all the usuals; pizza, picada, y parilla. At $25-27 pesos a pint, try the Rubia and the Scotch for two totally different but totally perfect beers.
Image via Yours Truly

Got a place to add to my list? Let me know!
Besos,
Amber

19 October 2012

Get Your SUBE Card!

After spending two pesos per bus trip this week, a friend tipped us off to the wonders of the SUBE card.



In Buenos Aires, public transportation is subsidized by the government, which is awesome and means that the most you pay is $2.50 ARS for the subte or $2 ARS for the bus ($.42-.52 USD) per ride. However, you can get an even better rate than this if you purchase a SUBE card. It costs $20-$25 ARS at first, but with it, each bus ride is either $1.20, $1.25, or $1.30 ARS depending on how far you are going. So it will take you a few rides to make up for the initial cost, but will save you loads down the road. Not to mention the headache of coming up with the proper coins needed.
Like many things in this lovely town, something as ubiquitous and practical as a SUBE card couldn't possibly be easy to come by! Sandro and I had stopped in six kioskos by the time we both obtained and charged up our cards. I write this to possibly make it easier for those in our same position!



We are in Palermo, so I only know the options in this neighborhood. However, I have come across this handy website that may or may not be accurate but is probably a good place to start if you live elsewhere. In Palermo, there are quite a few locutórios along Ave. Santa Fe. These little shops offer snacks, long distance telephone use, and internet by the minute. Some of them also sell SUBE cards. You'll just have to duck in and ask. You'll fill out a small application with your name, address, and passport/DNI number and pay the $20 ARS. However, your card will not come loaded with funds and the locutório may not charge SUBE cards. So you will have to find a kiosko that does. There are many along Santa Fe that sport the SUBE logo in their windows. These places may or may not be able to charge your card at that time, so again, you'll just have to ask. When you find a charging station, you can have up to $50 ARS put on the card at a time. The clerk will charge your card on a space age sensor machine and hand you a receipt with the proof of funds. Now get out there and ride the bus (but that's a whole other post...so ¡buen suerte!

17 October 2012

The Office - Coworking Space in Buenos Aires

Back in August, before Sandro and I arrived in Buenos Aires, I got in touch with the lovely people at The Office, a coworking space in Palermo near our future home. They were having a grand opening cocktail affair that week where they would choose from their e-newsletter list and award a one month free membership to the winner. Well guess who won? Sandro! Fortunately for me, he doesn't need office space for work the way I do. The staff at The Office not only let us transfer the gift to my name, but allowed me to push my free month back until October when I would arrive.



So yesterday I went to get started. I was greeted by Melina, a sweetheart receptionist who got me signed up and gave me the tour. The space is gorgeous and has got some sweet perks. Any membership level includes:

o Your own personal desk space of your choosing and use of the office's address for correspondence.
o Your own phone with a personal phone number and voicemail. You can choose to have your calls directed through the receptionist or sent directly to your desk. You'll get 200 minutes of free local landline calls per month and discounted rates for international calls.
o International plug adapters at every desk.
o Access to meeting rooms equipped for video and teleconferencing.
o Mini-muffins and cookies, tea, instant coffee, use of the dishes, microwave, and refrigerator. Better coffee is available for $3 ARS ($.63 USD) per cup.
o Locker access (with a small, refundable deposit for the key).
o Use of the printer, photocopier, fax, and scanner at $.15-.35 USD per page.
o Contracted rates with FedEx for shipping.
o Your membership card also gets you discounts of 10-20% at about 20 local restaurants and a couple of Spanish language schools.
o Various memberships are available with daily, weekly, and monthly rates and The Office currently offers a 3 day free trial to all new potential members.

The idea behind the coworking space is that members are respectful of each other's space and belongings, (so it is a safe place to use your fancy electronics!) but also that members are open to discussion and helping like-minded members with work related issues. Basically, it's a chilled out, friendly atmosphere where it's pretty quiet and you can get some work done while having some decent snacks. It's clean and modern and offers more in amenities than the average freelancer would need and enough to accommodate big time business people who lack a physical office.
The Office is located at Nicaragua 5867, between Carrazza and Ravignani and is open from 8am-8pm during the week and 8am-2pm on Saturdays (closed Sundays because, take a break). The staff is so great, speaks excellent English and Spanish, and is available at info@theofficeba.com.

16 October 2012

Getting a Cell Phone SIM card in Buenos Aires

Because technology moves so fast and international laws and customs are inconsistent, I was overwhelmed by the amount of online info regarding cell phones for foreigners in Buenos Aires. Well, I'm going to add to the pile and hope that this updated information lasts long enough to be of use to somebody! There are obviously further details regarding some of these steps, and they are available elsewhere.

One option:

Bring an unlocked, global ready smartphone from your home country. Read current forums regarding specific phone requirements for when you will be coming, as these things are constantly changing and the people will often give up more info than phone companies. Keep your phone in your pocket going through customs at the airport and you will be fine.

Go to the Movistar headquarters at Ave. Santa Fe 1844, between Callao and Riobamba. If you use the subte, take the D (Green) line to the Callao stop. When you come up out of the station, you'll be at the corner of Cordoba and Callao. Walk 3 blocks north to Santa Fe and make a right.



Approach one of the representatives waiting inside. Give them your name and ask for a SIM or microSIM Prepago, depending on your phone. Your name will be put on a list and you will be asked to wait in the lounge on the first floor.

Take the escalator up and you'll see a waiting area surrounded by small, numbered representative's stations. There will be a screen with the list of customer's names and matching box numbers. When your name and box number are highlighted, walk to the corresponding numbered station.



Most of the representatives speak Spanish, so if yours is rusty, simply say that you need a SIM or microSIM. If you're not sure which one you need, hand your phone to the rep and he or she will figure it out.

You will need to provide a passport to begin your registration. After a few minutes of clickity clacketing on the computer, the rep will give you paper work to sign and your SIM card, free of charge. The rep will install the SIM and you will receive a text message immediately stating that your service with Movistar is good to go.
In the morning on a weekday, before it gets busy, this whole process can take as little as half an hour. At lunch time or on weekends the wait can be a bit longer, or so I've heard.

Before you will be able to make calls and send texts, you'll have to buy minutes at a local spot. Most kioskos and locutórios will be able to provide credit virtually and in various amounts. There is a locutório around the corner from the Movistar headquarters, half a block south on Callao. Spend $30 ARS or more and you will pay $2.08/minute for calls and $.70/text.

This is expensive, however, Movistar regularly offers deals with double or more credit for the same price. You will receive credit un regalo via text message immediately after registration. Movistar will also text you with deals throughout the week when it is best to load up and get the most bang for your buck.

Please let me know if you have any questions! It's a lot less nerve-wracking than it sounds...I promise! Also, let me know if you've gone through this process and how it went for you.

xoxo
Amber

Feria de San Telmo

We went to the Feria de San Telmo this past Sunday and it was just as hectic and lovely as I remembered it! From gorgeous but pointless antiques to practical items like scarves and dishes to handicrafts and mass produced "art", there is something for everyone. If not to buy anything, just go to take in the atmosphere!



The feria begins at Defensa and Humberto Primo at Plaza Dorrego and runs all the way up and down Defensa until the wares and their makers run out. We got off the Subte from the C Line at Independencia. If you take this route, you'll come up out of the station at the corner of Independencia and Lima. Directly parallel to Lima are Avenida 9 de Julio and Bernardo de Ingoyen streets. It will look like a huge multi-lane highway with meridians, so cross each section as permitted! After you get through Ingoyen, walk six more blocks until you reach Defensa. Which way you go from there is up to you!



My favorite thing about these outdoor markets is the mix of people, food, handicrafts, junk, and the hustle and bustle. I'm not super skilled at bargaining, but I suppose it's expected at places like this, so get in there and see what you can find. I loved stopping to watch the musicians play every couple of blocks. They deserve a couple pesos for making the walk so cinematic!
Sandro and I enjoyed a cup of orange juice, squeezed right there in front of our faces, and choripan from the outdoor grill out that happens right in the middle of the street. Two words: sausage and bread. For $15 ARS ($3.50 USD) it's enough to hold you over until your inevitably late night dinner!

13 October 2012

Traveling to Buenos Aires: Success!

Hola from Buenos Aires! After all the planning and the research and the waiting and waiting, Sandro and I are finally here.

The trip down was mildly insane. The all-day trek from Philadelphia to JFK airport in New York was treacherous, but saved us about $400 total in the end, so worth it. The first leg of the flight was a red eye from JFK to Sao Paolo. I had the pleasure of sitting next to an older, saucy Brazilian woman who had enjoyed her share of scotch on the rocks at the airport bar. I learned all about her boyfriend back in NY, her squelched millions, and the 'family business' she was attending to back in her home country. Needless to say, I didn't sleep much.



A long day of traveling. Guarulhos International Airport, Sao Paolo, Brazil.

HOWEVER...let me give a shout out to TAM Airlines. Talk about classic airline service, the kind you just don't get anymore. We received candy, water, and a pouch containing necessary toiletries and socks the minute we boarded the plane. After take off began dinner service. The pasta and meat were not bad, and I couldn't possibly complain about the cheesecake. In the morning we had a breakfast of medialunas, fruit, and coffee. The second leg of our flight, from Sao Paolo to Buenos Aires, was only 2.5 hours long, but TAM provided lunch! Beef with rice and vegetables and a dulce de leche cake hit the spot. The flight attendants were patient with my lack of Portuguese and were very kind and available. The only downside is that TAM's international planes do not provide any more leg or luggage room than any other domestic plane. It was pretty cramped, but that's Economy Class. We were able to check one large bag each for no additional cost and could bring two carry ons. Overall, I would definitely recommend flying with TAM if you can find a good deal. The perks are worth it!



Another word to those coming down: there are many options for transportation from the airports into the city. I have only used the remises, or radiotaxis, so I can't speak for the buses and other options. However, I believe the price for a private, licensed, clean and courteous private taxi is worth it. When you exit customs, you'll see kiosks offering various types of transportation from various companies. The remises will usually all charge the same, so choose one. Be prepared with the address where you are going and either pesos or dollars in cash. But be aware, you won't get a better rate when paying in dollars. The clerk will lead you outside where your driver will assist in loading your luggage into the car. It is a courtesy to tip the driver 10% at the end of the trip. From Ezeiza Aeropuerto, we paid approximately $35 USD ($160 ARS) and from Aeroparque only $25 USD ($100 ARS). After 30 total hours of traveling, it was a great deal to be whisked away and dropped off at our doorstep!



So an altogether safe and successful trip. More interesting and Buenos Aires-centric details to come!
xoxo
Amber