27 December 2012

This is not a bitch sesh, it's a lesson.

When we visited BA last year, we decided we'd move here. Everyday of our trip was magical...so much to see and do. It was charming when the restaurant servers responded to our botched Spanish in English. We didn't have to do laundry. We ate every meal out and tried something new every day. We took cabs when it was too far to walk, which was never because we were so excited to walk. We walked around at night with money and a camera, speaking English all the way back to our room without reserve. We were from Philly, so grit (just straight up dirt) wasn't new, graffiti wasn't new, crazy drivers weren't anything new. We left ready to come back.



We came back a month ago with long term plans. We moved. We got rid of everything, gave up our apartment in Philly, saved up for a year and then moved to BA. We'd live here and work here and meet people for at least a year, at which point we'd probably be so in love we'd stay. Or, if by some chance it didn't work out, we'd go home.

It's been a month and I'm reminded of the very obvious idea that living in a place is not the same as visiting a place. Day to day life is not the same as vacation mode. Watching our budget means taking the bus, having the laundry done less often than we'd like, grocery shopping in a store where we can't tell the difference between milk in a bag and drinkable yogurt. Living in an apartment for a fair price means dealing with leaky faucets and no window screens in the middle of mosquito season. The graffiti (different from the street art) on every single wall ever, the dog shit that doesn't get scooped on the sidewalks, these things are no longer 'quirky' but frustrating. As a privileged person, it's ridiculous that I could even complain. But I think you get my point.

But this city is awesome. It reminds me so much of New York in it's density and activity and the pride the people have in their hometown. I go to New York when I want to have a whirlwind time. I go to NY to hang in Central Park. Everything is big and fast and fun and if something sucks it doesn't matter because everything else is pretty rad. And I can leave. I can go back to Philly where there's just as much fun but it's slower, quieter, more manageable. Comparisons aren't always fair, but this is the best I can do.

And I love South America. I love the Latin American things about this city. I love the late mornings and nights, I love the relaxed attitudes. No one cares what you do for a job, no one cares what you're wearing, and no one cares what you do in your free time. As long as you're around for a coffee in the afternoon, you've got friends. And there's an enormous park here in BA, with a lake and bridges and a rose garden. People rollerblade and run around in the grass with their kids, drinking mate, or making out. You can't beat it.

But the inflation is real. Don't be fooled or think it's less of an issue than it seems. It's a real, daily problem that even affects those of us making dollars. A year ago, everything in this city was approximately 15% less expensive than in Philly. This year, everything is at least that much pricier. Again, I'm talking NY prices. You will not find a 'deal' here on anything but public transportation, in my experience.

So Sandro and I have decided to travel. It's too expensive to live the life we want in this city long term. That may not always be the case (2001 financial crisis re-dux?), but for now it's only getting more expensive by the day. We came here to practice Spanish, meet people, and work less, and that last part can't happen here for much longer. We're having fun, and there's so much more to see, so we're staying in the city until March, then redirecting our mission!

I had no idea this was coming, but I got here and suddenly craved the atmosphere I was born in. Salty California air, green mountains and blue seas, warmth year round. I didn't expect that feeling to come until I got old and cold, but here it is while I'm still young and excited. I want to sit on a porch and look out at the ocean, shaded by huge palm leaves. I want to walk around barefoot. I want a stray dog to come by in the afternoons. I want to live in Nicaragua?

I'm worried this means I'm fickle. But I don't believe it. If it were someone else I'd wonder what they were running from. But I really think I'm just so grateful to have a buddy and freelance work and the wherewithal to finally travel the world and to not be burdened with stuff and to pursue this dream that I was wrong to think I'd want to settle in one place. I'm so eager to soak in every single thing and place and person and food I come across that I have to take it while I can.

Now we've got plans for a trip to Ushuaia in March, the world's southern most city, the closest thing to the Antarctic Circle! Then we'll hop our way back up north, stopping for a month or more at a time in Chile, Peru, Colombia, Nicaragua. We've got permits to hike the Inca Trail to Machu Pichu in May, so THAT'S HAPPENING! If we end up somewhere that we love and that really works, we'll stay longer. If we hear of somewhere great or meet some travelers, we'll detour. We'll keep working and hopefully stop bleeding money in some of these less expensive areas. We'll see more and be open. We'll slow down and get tropical. We'll figure it out as we go instead of making such long term plans ahead of time.

13 December 2012

A Weekend in Mendoza

This weekend we took a four day trip to Mendoza, the capital of the province of the same name to the west of Buenos Aires. It butts up against the Chilean border and sits in the foothills of the Andes. It's a dry, warm region this time of year, making it the perfect climate for vineyards. So naturally, this is where a huge portion of Argentine wine comes from. We were lucky enough to take some winery tours, do some tastings, and meet some really awesome people along the way.



The highlight of our trip for me was a bike ride through wine land with a group of international travelers we met at the hostel. We took a bus about 30 minutes out of the city to Lujan de Cuyo, where the Baccus bike rental shop was located only minutes from eight wineries. For $35 ARS/$7 USD we got decent bikes (functioning, though not extremely comfortable!) for the entire day and a map detailing what each spot had to offer and their available tour times.
The first winery we stopped at was Alta Vista. This very professional, medium sized production winery produces red and white wines that are found throughout Argentina. For $30 pesos, we got a tour of the old and new holding tanks and the cellar as well as a tasting of three different wine varieties. Perfecto! Bottles ranged from $65-$2000 ARS.



Our next stop was Pulmary. This tiny, organic, single family winery was the most charming and interesting in my opinion. We got a tour of the tanks and cellar, and were even treated to wine right out of the oak barrels! We ate the most delicious hunks of seared beef I've ever tasted in my life out in the yard. For $30 pesos, we were given two full bottles of wine for tasting for the group (regularly $100 ARS each). By this time, I was feeling a little wobbly getting back on my bike!



Our last stop was Clos de Chacras. We had an excellent guide who took us through the wine making process, throughout the winery, and even into the vineyards. We sat out on their gorgeous deck by a fish pond and shared four bottles, one from each of line. Bottles ranged from $40-180 ARS. The 'tasting' came with cheese, crackers, and raisins and the cost divided among the group came out to only $40 pesos per person!

Other than that, we did a lot of relaxing in the sun. I love dry heat so much, so I felt right at home in Mendoza. We explored the city itself a little bit, and I can't say there's a ton to report. But having met such an awesome group of friends right at the beginning, we had a really good time. Three major asados in three days put me over the edge...So Much Beef And Wine! But who's complaining?



Oh. We also hung out with this dude for a second...